Zilla's 2007 winter work:
11-21-2007, 09:50 AM
#101
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Posts like a Ricer Type-R
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Keep in mind this is for someone that constantly rips that mount apart (every 500 to 1000 miles, and can live with excess drivetrain vibration in the car. It'* obvious in the gas and brake pedals, steering wheel, and even the rear seats if you can believe it. Not as bad as my prototype mounts (2 of them), but still easily felt. It might be similar to the 2k guys with the hockey puck mount. I'd have to compare (I'm betting mine is worse though).
All warnings aside, the mount in this topic:
(scroll down for the final version on page 3)
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...86901&start=40
Is made with a standard Energy Suspension polyurethane endlink bushing. If you do the rear as covered on our Forum (link in a minute), you'll find the front kit comes with everything you need, but to do the rear, you have to buy the universal kit. You will have extra bushings and washers left over.
Endlinks:
See that pack of eight on the right? You only need 6 of them for the rear endlinks. That'll leave you 2 extra. The universal kit pictured was less than 10 bucks. (this post was back in August of 2004 though, so prices may have changed).
I SHOULD be able to firm up or loosen up the 'response' of the mount rather easily. I'm considering that for the spring. Leave it sortof loose for daily driving, then crank it down for the track.
All warnings aside, the mount in this topic:
(scroll down for the final version on page 3)
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...86901&start=40
Is made with a standard Energy Suspension polyurethane endlink bushing. If you do the rear as covered on our Forum (link in a minute), you'll find the front kit comes with everything you need, but to do the rear, you have to buy the universal kit. You will have extra bushings and washers left over.
Endlinks:
Originally Posted by willwren
Ok....here'* the deal (with ALL the details for 92-99, all models):
The link kit from GM is crap. Not sure when the change happened, but GM is using plastic spacers and washers on the new kits (verified in person at the local dealer). I think the plastic would give too much, and doesn't provide enough support for the insulators, especially on the firmer SSE/SSEi suspensions. Wanna firm up your ride?
Buy Energy Suspension kit #9.8120RC. This kit is for the left and right (front) endlinks. It'* complete with BIGGER than stock bolts (and shorter, thank god), washers, and POLYURETHANE bushings (insulators). I got mine at Autozone for about $15 for BOTH sides (in the same package....full front kit). Follow the advice previously stated in this thread for install, but the kit comes with good directions, too. You don't need a maintenance manual. Just a good set of ramps and basic tools.
Wanna do the rear? Leave it to GM. They don't sell a kit for the rear. Each individual piece (bolt, nut, 2 washers, 3 insulators) have to be purchased seperately. Combined, it'll run you about $25. I have a better idea. Buy just the BOLT from GM. Get 2 of the 10026678 bolts (trust me, you want new....don't re-use the old), should run just shy of 4 bucks each. Then go to your local hardware store and buy two 8mm 'nylock' hex nuts. Fit them to the bolts to make sure, and try to get stainless steel. Now go BACK to Autozone and buy the Energy Suspension kit # 9.8105RC Bushing set. Comes with 8 washers and 8 bushings (insulators). You'll have 2 extra of each. Cost me $9 (US).
I haven't done the rear yet, but I now have a better than stock kit ready to go in for less than $20 for the rear.
Here they are lined up (left to right):
Far left, new package, old front endlinks. Far right, new rear endlink 'kit'.
Enjoy. And thanks again to our Gearheads for starting this new 'trend'.
The link kit from GM is crap. Not sure when the change happened, but GM is using plastic spacers and washers on the new kits (verified in person at the local dealer). I think the plastic would give too much, and doesn't provide enough support for the insulators, especially on the firmer SSE/SSEi suspensions. Wanna firm up your ride?
Buy Energy Suspension kit #9.8120RC. This kit is for the left and right (front) endlinks. It'* complete with BIGGER than stock bolts (and shorter, thank god), washers, and POLYURETHANE bushings (insulators). I got mine at Autozone for about $15 for BOTH sides (in the same package....full front kit). Follow the advice previously stated in this thread for install, but the kit comes with good directions, too. You don't need a maintenance manual. Just a good set of ramps and basic tools.
Wanna do the rear? Leave it to GM. They don't sell a kit for the rear. Each individual piece (bolt, nut, 2 washers, 3 insulators) have to be purchased seperately. Combined, it'll run you about $25. I have a better idea. Buy just the BOLT from GM. Get 2 of the 10026678 bolts (trust me, you want new....don't re-use the old), should run just shy of 4 bucks each. Then go to your local hardware store and buy two 8mm 'nylock' hex nuts. Fit them to the bolts to make sure, and try to get stainless steel. Now go BACK to Autozone and buy the Energy Suspension kit # 9.8105RC Bushing set. Comes with 8 washers and 8 bushings (insulators). You'll have 2 extra of each. Cost me $9 (US).
I haven't done the rear yet, but I now have a better than stock kit ready to go in for less than $20 for the rear.
Here they are lined up (left to right):
Far left, new package, old front endlinks. Far right, new rear endlink 'kit'.
Enjoy. And thanks again to our Gearheads for starting this new 'trend'.
I SHOULD be able to firm up or loosen up the 'response' of the mount rather easily. I'm considering that for the spring. Leave it sortof loose for daily driving, then crank it down for the track.
11-21-2007, 04:04 PM
#102
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Join Date: May 2005
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Originally Posted by willwren
All warnings aside, the mount in this topic:
(scroll down for the final version on page 3)
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...86901&start=40
(scroll down for the final version on page 3)
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...86901&start=40
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...stall&start=20
I redid the mount after I bent the bolt with my L67; I used a larger dia. Grade 8 bolt the second time around.
Ed
11-21-2007, 08:16 PM
#103
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The vibration is not that bad on the +00 mounts.
I don't even know it'* there anymore and my wife doesn't complain....that'* the important test.
Bill, I still haven't added the bushings on the accel side, so it'* solid on that side with no dampening and it still is hardly noticeable.
I plan on trying the additional bushings to see if it makes any difference but don't think I will notice a difference.....like your experience.
I don't even know it'* there anymore and my wife doesn't complain....that'* the important test.
Bill, I still haven't added the bushings on the accel side, so it'* solid on that side with no dampening and it still is hardly noticeable.
I plan on trying the additional bushings to see if it makes any difference but don't think I will notice a difference.....like your experience.
11-21-2007, 10:34 PM
#104
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
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The true beauty with this design is that I didn't REPLACE anything. The stock mount remains intact. It ADDS a feature that is somewhat tunable. I can loosen and tighten it for whatever effect I want.
12-25-2007, 07:04 PM
#106
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Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
I've driven the car like I usually do (kinda beat on it) at least every other day since I did the mount until the last 3 days while I worked on the hood. It'* holding up very well, and has not changed. I do intend to loosen it a bit for everyday driving. When I do that, I'll weld a combination wrench'* box end to the top nut that is harder to get to. It will only be able to turn so far in either direction. Then I only need a ratchet below to adjust mount tension. It'* nearly impossible to hold both tools from above or below without help.
This would also make it much easier to assemble. Getting that top nut on and started is a real bear.
This would also make it much easier to assemble. Getting that top nut on and started is a real bear.
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