Here are some notes from what I found on the install and have sent off to Mike at WBS in hopes that they can be reviewed for future improvements on the headers.
The headers took me an extra 3 hours more than usual (SD'*, SLP'* etc) to install. The rear went in ok, with the cradle down while the cam was being installed. Didn't want to bolt up though. It'* typical with SD, SSAC ZZP'* and SLP'* to not need to bend/tweak the dipstick much at all. The rear header was no where near it'* correct location. I ended up bending the trans dipstick about as much as a TOG install. The tube in Rich'* car is currently leaking from being bent like a pretzel and we'll be addressing it a third time soon.
On the rear header, I found the bolt hole closest to the #2 primary (between #2 and #4) to be very close to the primary. The bend in the primary kept me from attempting to put any regular sized tools in there.
Ended up using a bolt with a 10mm head and the 1/4" shallow socker with universal and 1/4" ratchet to tighten it. Still looks like it'* sitting on the weld.
The driverside bolt on the outside of #6 was a pain. There is no clearance to get tools in to tighten it down. I tapped the nut and die'd the bolt to make them go together by finger and was able to get about 1/8th of a turn for tightening it down.
The EGR tube on the headers has a tube that is too small for the EGR tube to fit into and be bolted down. PaceSetter did the same.
The fix, cut the EGR tube down, which potentially causes a leak. Requires the EGR to be removed from the motor.