What else to do (L36) while swapping cam and heads?
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What else to do (L36) while swapping cam and heads?
Still gathering info for a cam swap for the L36...
Thinking about going with a mild cam...perhaps GT1. I will use CC 105# springs/retainers and stock keepers, valves and rockers.
I'm already planning on swapping in a brand new stock timing set (chain, gears, dampener), with new cam bolt and new crank bolt.
Of course I'm going to use a new front cover gasket, and I've decide to re-replace the aluminum LIM gaskets.
I'm also going to swap in a brand new stock water pump and gasket.
I'm going with some home-P&P'd, decked 0.040" L36 heads, and I plan to use head studs and FelPro stock head gaskets. I will be using CompCams 7.00 pushrods.
Questions:
-Head studs: Any real difference between ARP (~$100) and the ZZP studs (~$80)?
-Head gaskets: Any difference between FelPro stockers designed for */C versus N/A applications? They are different p/n'* and the */C ones cost ~$60 vs ~$35 for N/A.
-Lifters: Brand new OEM-style stock lifters (~$110 Rock Auto)? Low mileage JY lifters (~$??? ) Keep original 99k mile lifters?
-Oiling: Oil pump repair kit (~$40 Rock Auto)? Oil volume kit (~$30 zzp)? Either? Neither?
-Valveseals: ZZP vitons (~$20)? Are these any different from FelPro premiums (~$15 Rock Auto)?
Anything else I should be doing while I'm in there?
Thinking about going with a mild cam...perhaps GT1. I will use CC 105# springs/retainers and stock keepers, valves and rockers.
I'm already planning on swapping in a brand new stock timing set (chain, gears, dampener), with new cam bolt and new crank bolt.
Of course I'm going to use a new front cover gasket, and I've decide to re-replace the aluminum LIM gaskets.
I'm also going to swap in a brand new stock water pump and gasket.
I'm going with some home-P&P'd, decked 0.040" L36 heads, and I plan to use head studs and FelPro stock head gaskets. I will be using CompCams 7.00 pushrods.
Questions:
-Head studs: Any real difference between ARP (~$100) and the ZZP studs (~$80)?
-Head gaskets: Any difference between FelPro stockers designed for */C versus N/A applications? They are different p/n'* and the */C ones cost ~$60 vs ~$35 for N/A.
-Lifters: Brand new OEM-style stock lifters (~$110 Rock Auto)? Low mileage JY lifters (~$??? ) Keep original 99k mile lifters?
-Oiling: Oil pump repair kit (~$40 Rock Auto)? Oil volume kit (~$30 zzp)? Either? Neither?
-Valveseals: ZZP vitons (~$20)? Are these any different from FelPro premiums (~$15 Rock Auto)?
Anything else I should be doing while I'm in there?
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Personally I would want to run a stronger timing chain with the cam and heavier springs just for peace of mind and durability. I would say stick with your original lifters or get new ones but I wouldn't buy used ones and put them in the motor.
Ed
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Re: What else to do (L36) while swapping cam and heads?
Originally Posted by agrazela
Questions:
-Head studs: Any real difference between ARP (~$100) and the ZZP studs (~$80)?
-Head studs: Any real difference between ARP (~$100) and the ZZP studs (~$80)?
Originally Posted by agrazela
-Head gaskets: Any difference between FelPro stockers designed for */C versus N/A applications? They are different p/n'* and the */C ones cost ~$60 vs ~$35 for N/A.
Originally Posted by agrazela
-Lifters: Brand new OEM-style stock lifters (~$110 Rock Auto)? Low mileage JY lifters (~$??? ) Keep original 99k mile lifters?
I've read about Comps issues for years and stayed far away from them. I guess you read about that too and thats why did didn't mention them.
Originally Posted by agrazela
-Oiling: Oil pump repair kit (~$40 Rock Auto)? Oil volume kit (~$30 zzp)? Either? Neither?
Originally Posted by agrazela
-Valveseals: ZZP vitons (~$20)? Are these any different from FelPro premiums (~$15 Rock Auto)?
Originally Posted by agrazela
Anything else I should be doing while I'm in there?
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I'm going with some home-P&P'd, decked 0.040" L36 heads,
are you planning to deck the LIM to go whit the heads and do you what compression ratio that will give you
I'm already planning on swapping in a brand new stock timing set
just stay away of the rollmaster timing set look like that chain and 105 spring don't mix well
im following this because i will be doing a few of these mod myself
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Originally Posted by McGrath
Personally I would want to run a stronger timing chain with the cam and heavier springs just for peace of mind and durability. I would say stick with your original lifters or get new ones but I wouldn't buy used ones and put them in the motor.
Ed
Ed
And from what I've been reading, single roller aftermarket timing chains have been breaking with some regularity lately, supposedly because of poor sprocket-to-shaft fitment leading to lack of alignment between sprockets.
So I figure I'll just go with a new stock timing set...actually, an L67 set, since recent research indicates a 2-degree camshaft advance with that vs. stock L36 set.
And I already have it, so that'* settled :P
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
Unless you plan on having your heads off agian any time soon I would just use stock TTY bolts.
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
The n/a gaskets should be more than enough.
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
I'm not sure what the repair kit is but the volume kit isn't a bad idea.
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
I've read about Comps issues for years and stayed far away from them. I guess you read about that too and thats why did didn't mention them
As to lifters...I now have a half-vote for "new", a half-vote for "keep originals", one vote for "get low-mile JY'*" and one vote for "do not get JY'*" I have no reason to believe I have any problems with my current lifters...but then again, I can't remember how they sounded 60k+ miles ago So should I chance re-using my current stockers since I don't think there'* anything wrong with them? Should I just pick up a couple spares, just in case one or two look bad when I pull them out (roller scoring, bad roller bearings, whatever)?
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
are you planning to deck the LIM to go whit the heads and do you what compression ratio that will give you
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
If you decide the water pump isn't something you have to do, leave it attached to the front cover and don't disturb the gasket.
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On the oil pump... I have seen almost none fail on an LN3, L27, L67,L36, Series II L67... Usually if there is a failure its a rod bearing or a couple... And in some cases the wear is enough that the oil pump just can't keep up..
If you were producing good oil pressure before I would be tempted to leave the oil pump alone... Pull off the front cover and set it aside.. The good thing is that the Pump is already primed and will pick up the oil right away.... Unless you know you have an issue, why fix it.. Yeah I know I am not making any sense..
But being that you are making this a bit of a performer, maybe add an oil pressure kit from intense or the like to push a little more oil in the higher RPM'*
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If you were producing good oil pressure before I would be tempted to leave the oil pump alone... Pull off the front cover and set it aside.. The good thing is that the Pump is already primed and will pick up the oil right away.... Unless you know you have an issue, why fix it.. Yeah I know I am not making any sense..
But being that you are making this a bit of a performer, maybe add an oil pressure kit from intense or the like to push a little more oil in the higher RPM'*
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#9
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Only because..why change a good pump. It'* not that hard in the car. Especially with that other thing you pm'd me about.
I heard Rollmasters were breaking..not JP'*. Although use what you have if it'* good.
I agree with Don on the oil pump. Add the high pressure kit while you are in there, but no need to change the pump.
I heard Rollmasters were breaking..not JP'*. Although use what you have if it'* good.
I agree with Don on the oil pump. Add the high pressure kit while you are in there, but no need to change the pump.
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Re: What else to do (L36) while swapping cam and heads?
Originally Posted by agrazela
Still gathering info for a cam swap for the L36...
Thinking about going with a mild cam...perhaps GT1. I will use CC 105# springs/retainers and stock keepers, valves and rockers.
I'm already planning on swapping in a brand new stock timing set (chain, gears, dampener), with new cam bolt and new crank bolt.
Of course I'm going to use a new front cover gasket, and I've decide to re-replace the aluminum LIM gaskets.
I'm also going to swap in a brand new stock water pump and gasket.
I'm going with some home-P&P'd, decked 0.040" L36 heads, and I plan to use head studs and FelPro stock head gaskets. I will be using CompCams 7.00 pushrods.
Thinking about going with a mild cam...perhaps GT1. I will use CC 105# springs/retainers and stock keepers, valves and rockers.
I'm already planning on swapping in a brand new stock timing set (chain, gears, dampener), with new cam bolt and new crank bolt.
Of course I'm going to use a new front cover gasket, and I've decide to re-replace the aluminum LIM gaskets.
I'm also going to swap in a brand new stock water pump and gasket.
I'm going with some home-P&P'd, decked 0.040" L36 heads, and I plan to use head studs and FelPro stock head gaskets. I will be using CompCams 7.00 pushrods.
Unless you have an issue with your water pump I don't see a reason to replace that either. If it doesn't leak now leave it, there is no guarantee that a new one is going to last any longer. If it ain't broke, dont fix it.
Questions:
-Head studs: Any real difference between ARP (~$100) and the ZZP studs (~$80)?
-Head studs: Any real difference between ARP (~$100) and the ZZP studs (~$80)?
-Head gaskets: Any difference between FelPro stockers designed for */C versus N/A applications? They are different p/n'* and the */C ones cost ~$60 vs ~$35 for N/A.
-Lifters: Brand new OEM-style stock lifters (~$110 Rock Auto)? Low mileage JY lifters (~$??? ) Keep original 99k mile lifters?
-Oiling: Oil pump repair kit (~$40 Rock Auto)? Oil volume kit (~$30 zzp)? Either? Neither?
-Valveseals: ZZP vitons (~$20)? Are these any different from FelPro premiums (~$15 Rock Auto)?
HTH.
Shawn