Conclusion #1....I can make my IAT read 5° below ambient outside temps with water injection. (need to sheild it from direct water contact to get an accurate reading, but my IAT was only reading 5° warmer than ambient on the way to my 'runs'.)

Conclusion #2....with the cruise set at 65mph in OD, TC lockup, MAF reads about 6000. Turn water injection on, it reads 10,000ish. That'* a significant increase, however, the heat of the TB and SC diminish that before it enters the cylinders. Better yes, perfect? NO.

Conclusion #3....Performance shift kills performance on a HOT day (about 90° ambient) because of KR. Normal mode helps prevent KR at the higher RPM'*, and actually turns in better E/T'*. With colder weather (85° and below) Performance shift mode is superior. Kill KR, and it doesn't matter. Boost the octane and use water injection.

Conclusion #4....I'm running way too much water to run the injection at 70° ambient. Hotter days, it works better. I may also need to restrict water delivery until 3500-4000rpms. Still testing this.

In full street trim, I ran this without water injection:
15.292 @ 93.02 mph (2.5 60')

Then I turned on the WI while preloading and turned this:
17.152 @ 79.06 mph (2.6 60')

Then I turned WI back off, and turned this:
15.244 @ 92.75 mph (2.5 60')

There'* a couple ways to decrease the water. Flow and Pressure are the obvious choices, but mixing with something else is better. Methanol may be the answer. Super-cooling, and it burns in the cylinders. 50/50 mixes are common, but I'll start lower.

My 60' times at woodburn were 2.2, so you can see what cold, dusty tires will do (cooling breaks between runs were on the gravel shoulder). Trimming 2 or 3 tenths just off the 60' will do wonders for the E/T'*. Trimming the weight, and boosting the octane back up will do more.....

......and whenever I figure out the stupid water recipe, it should be another tenth or so. I had it working great last year, but this is really a totally different setup, especially in the nozzle. One thing I might try is dropping the Aquamist jet from 0.7mm to 0.5mm. I have one available for borrowing (right Mike?)

The car is easily capable of 14'* without the Water Injection, as I proved last year. I just need to duplicate it at the track when I'm not carrying an extra 300 pounds.

wow, that'* cool.. but now if your car is slower with water injection, then why run it on the track, instead why don't you just inject the water while driving to the track, and when staging and such?


-justin

The water will work in the right amount at the right time. I just need to tune it.

I won't run it when staging. I'd rather not be kicked off the track.

Sounds cool. You going to tune whatever you can with just the water before you go to the methanol mix?

Not sure yet. I think it'* a combination of less water, and add methanol. I'll probably go right to a mild methanol mix to start with, while metering down the flow at the same time.

I have the 3 Gtech runs. Just need to DL them.

Why would having the MAF frequency increased to almost WOT flow levels at highway cruising speeds be a good thing? That must make tuning next to impossible, no?

Cheers,

How much KR are you getting without the water injection?

WOT maf levels at 1500 isn't a good thing, just an indication that 'something' is possible here. And that alot more tuning needs to be done.

With 92 octane gas at 90° ambient, I get 5-7° of KR. Zero with WI.

That Knock retard is a nasty thing but sure beats the hell out of the consequences.

Very interesting findings so far Bill.
Keep is all up to date on further progress.