Illustrated rebuilding of a L36 into a supercharged 3800...
01-07-2007, 01:51 PM
#42
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Posts like a Ricer Type-R
A good indication is the amount of shavings Curt got off the bolts by chasing the threads
with a die (see pic on previous page). A bolt that has not stretched shouldn't ever
produce that many shavings if chased with the proper die.
with a die (see pic on previous page). A bolt that has not stretched shouldn't ever
produce that many shavings if chased with the proper die.
01-07-2007, 02:19 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by willwren
A good indication is the amount of shavings Curt got off the bolts by chasing the threads
with a die (see pic on previous page). A bolt that has not stretched shouldn't ever
produce that many shavings if chased with the proper die.
with a die (see pic on previous page). A bolt that has not stretched shouldn't ever
produce that many shavings if chased with the proper die.
Rocker arm bolts were marked "KX" on the caps, indicating a prevailing torque bolt, typical of one with a locking compound pre-applied. Head bolts are marked "TX" with the same orange, fiberous, locking compound.
01-07-2007, 02:31 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by clm2112
Originally Posted by willwren
Ok, time for a question. You clean up and re-use TTY bolts? I thought the rocker arm
bolts were one-time use? What'* the difference betweeen them and 'reusable' bolts?
My understanding was the rocker bolts and head bolts stretched after initial torquing.
bolts were one-time use? What'* the difference betweeen them and 'reusable' bolts?
My understanding was the rocker bolts and head bolts stretched after initial torquing.
On the head bolts, I haven't read up on the reassembly of the heads, so I can't answer that one just yet, though again it wouldn't surprise me to find they are torque-to-yeild bolts and are more trashcan material.
Supposedly the Rocker arm bolts are TTY iirc
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01-07-2007, 02:53 PM
#46
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Also, on those that want to do a performance rebuild or plan to take the heads off from time to time, ARP head studs may be the better option since those are not a TTY design.
When I pulled the rockers off of my S1, they were loaded with threadlocker, and seemed to be more on those than on the headbolts.
EDIT: The above statement should be clarified a bit. For the size and purpose of the bolts, the rocker bolts *seemed* to have thicker coverage than the headbolts. Yeah, that sounds better
When I pulled the rockers off of my S1, they were loaded with threadlocker, and seemed to be more on those than on the headbolts.
EDIT: The above statement should be clarified a bit. For the size and purpose of the bolts, the rocker bolts *seemed* to have thicker coverage than the headbolts. Yeah, that sounds better
01-08-2007, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by willwren
Billboost is on the phone with me. He'* reminding me of the last time I looked it up, and
is stating that I looked it up and told him they were TTY.
is stating that I looked it up and told him they were TTY.
So far the list of replacement parts includes:
1.) Main Journal Bearings
2.) Rod Bearings
3.) Cam Bearings (Included in the block prep charge from machine shop)
4.) Balancer Shaft bushing (also included with block)
5.) Pushrods
6.) Head Bolt set
7.) Rocker arm bolt set
8.) all gaskets and seals
9.) Plastic Lifter retainer/locking plates (2)
10.) Cam Chain Tensioner
That should be about $350 to $400 worth of bits. Not bad thus far, could be worse.
Today I should find out about the block'* condition to see if new pistons will be required.
01-08-2007, 06:49 PM
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Phone rings, the heavens open, and a word is spoken from on high....."Overbore"
Ok, that'* the word from the machine shop. To get the block cylinders squeeky clean, straight, and true, they bored the block 0.030" over. I can pick the block up tommorrow afternoon.
Time to add about $400+ to the budget on the next payday. I'm going to use blower pistons and matching rods. I need to double check that overbore number. I may have to have the pistons custom made.
Any suggestions on a target compression ratio to aim for? I'm tempted to go with the higher N/A compression ratio with the blower heads...but the lower stock ratio would probably work better on mid-grade pump gas.
Ok, that'* the word from the machine shop. To get the block cylinders squeeky clean, straight, and true, they bored the block 0.030" over. I can pick the block up tommorrow afternoon.
Time to add about $400+ to the budget on the next payday. I'm going to use blower pistons and matching rods. I need to double check that overbore number. I may have to have the pistons custom made.
Any suggestions on a target compression ratio to aim for? I'm tempted to go with the higher N/A compression ratio with the blower heads...but the lower stock ratio would probably work better on mid-grade pump gas.