96-99 Transmission Mount (Updated)
#1
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
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96-99 Transmission Mount (Updated)
I've been toying around with some ideas since putting on the SLP headers. Problem with the SLP'* is that the #3 cylinder tube comes way down and make it necessary (at least for me) to remove the strut part and bracket of the front transmission mount.
This leaves only the rubber, which dies quickly. (Especially under harsh conditions).
I thought over how the 00+ guys do it with hockey pucks and thought.. this may work for me too. A bit of cutting, grinding and a little more work to go. Here'* what I have so far. (Still need to grind more and then weld) Since I have the big rubber part already, I'm not concerned with overall thickness of hockey puck. My concern is more of a solid mounting for torquing backwards.
Brand new mount from Napa, excess glue was there when I got it.
This leaves only the rubber, which dies quickly. (Especially under harsh conditions).
I thought over how the 00+ guys do it with hockey pucks and thought.. this may work for me too. A bit of cutting, grinding and a little more work to go. Here'* what I have so far. (Still need to grind more and then weld) Since I have the big rubber part already, I'm not concerned with overall thickness of hockey puck. My concern is more of a solid mounting for torquing backwards.
Brand new mount from Napa, excess glue was there when I got it.
#2
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Good, But. I'd try to get a bit of shock absorption just under the head of the bolt if you're going to stay with that setup.
I think if you simply strengthened the center pin the problem of losing the strut is moot. The strut is simply to lower the shock loads on the center pin, Which as you can see is some sort of "press-on" style. Every one of the mounts I've broken has had that center pin broken for about a week before the rubber popped.
I think if you simply strengthened the center pin the problem of losing the strut is moot. The strut is simply to lower the shock loads on the center pin, Which as you can see is some sort of "press-on" style. Every one of the mounts I've broken has had that center pin broken for about a week before the rubber popped.
#4
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
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Bump, Looking for opinons, ideas and viewpoints on this puppy.
The pin Dame is talking about is in a slightly different location. With it still in place, w/o the strut..there'* simply too much movement.
The pin Dame is talking about is in a slightly different location. With it still in place, w/o the strut..there'* simply too much movement.
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I like the idea, the rubber was seperated from the metal on both of my cars. I wonder if that would adversely affect anything, because I reinstalled it the way it was. Boosty I like where you are going with the idea.
#7
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
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I too had concerns about it being solid. Although.. our newer gens are doing this with solid mounts. (And where I got the idea.)
Picture is from Harofreak'* install. Metal lower bracket, hockey pucks and metal upper bracket. All solid.
Knowing that, I'm less fearful and do plan to add as much support as possible, like mentioned by 95NASTA.
Almost thinking about trying to get a solid bracket from an 00 to use on the top from the trans.
Picture is from Harofreak'* install. Metal lower bracket, hockey pucks and metal upper bracket. All solid.
Knowing that, I'm less fearful and do plan to add as much support as possible, like mentioned by 95NASTA.
Almost thinking about trying to get a solid bracket from an 00 to use on the top from the trans.
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From what I've been reading I'll assume no aftermarket resources make poly mounts for our cars. My 96 L36 is stock with 138K and I need to replace some for the second time.
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Could you use a 00+ tranny mount on a 96-99?? I wonder if the tranny bracket would center over the subframe on the 96-99?? I would rather have a solid mount than the glued together metal and rubber mount, if it cleared the headers.