Converting a series I
#11
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Originally Posted by llBlazin_llLo
There is L27'* out their just as fast as some L67'* and some that are putting down more torque then L67'* with nitrous without having problems with the diff.
By the time you beef up what you need to on an L27 in order to make it reliably hold the power (particularly the low-end torque), you could have sold your car and purchased an L67 powered vehicle.
#13
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
To hold the power reliably:
Trans rebuild to begin with if you're starting with your old higher mileage 4T60.
Output housing from the trans (yes, the L67 gets a beefier one, just like the old caddy'*).
Drive axles.
Differential.
Second gear clutches should be done as well (bare minimum). They take a beating under the L67.
Rods and pistons (L67'* don't use floating wrist pins like the L27 does).
Now we move on to the other components:
Supercharger with BCS and BCA
Throttle Body
MAF sensor
PCM
Engine wiring harness
Accessory brackets
PS pump
All idlers and tensioners
LIM
Fuel Injectors
Fuel pump (L27 pump is different than L67)
Fuel rail (unsure about the FPR but possible)
Crank pulley and belts
Associated gaskets
Motor/trans mounts should be done at this time due to increased torque
Or simply a full swap to save the money and labor/time. Or better yet, sell the car and buy an SSEi.
BlazinLo, while I admire your 'you can do it' attitude, we try very hard to make sure people get the 'big picture' on this Forum. Our goal is to insure people get the performance and reliability to make their experience better. Saving money and time is a big thing for us.
Trans rebuild to begin with if you're starting with your old higher mileage 4T60.
Output housing from the trans (yes, the L67 gets a beefier one, just like the old caddy'*).
Drive axles.
Differential.
Second gear clutches should be done as well (bare minimum). They take a beating under the L67.
Rods and pistons (L67'* don't use floating wrist pins like the L27 does).
Now we move on to the other components:
Supercharger with BCS and BCA
Throttle Body
MAF sensor
PCM
Engine wiring harness
Accessory brackets
PS pump
All idlers and tensioners
LIM
Fuel Injectors
Fuel pump (L27 pump is different than L67)
Fuel rail (unsure about the FPR but possible)
Crank pulley and belts
Associated gaskets
Motor/trans mounts should be done at this time due to increased torque
Or simply a full swap to save the money and labor/time. Or better yet, sell the car and buy an SSEi.
BlazinLo, while I admire your 'you can do it' attitude, we try very hard to make sure people get the 'big picture' on this Forum. Our goal is to insure people get the performance and reliability to make their experience better. Saving money and time is a big thing for us.
#14
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bolingbrook, IL Location: Clarkston, MI
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Originally Posted by willwren
To hold the power reliably:
Trans rebuild to begin with if you're starting with your old higher mileage 4T60.
Output housing from the trans (yes, the L67 gets a beefier one, just like the old caddy'*).
Drive axles.
Differential.
Second gear clutches should be done as well (bare minimum). They take a beating under the L67.
Rods and pistons (L67'* don't use floating wrist pins like the L27 does).
Trans rebuild to begin with if you're starting with your old higher mileage 4T60.
Output housing from the trans (yes, the L67 gets a beefier one, just like the old caddy'*).
Drive axles.
Differential.
Second gear clutches should be done as well (bare minimum). They take a beating under the L67.
Rods and pistons (L67'* don't use floating wrist pins like the L27 does).
If you are really worried about the trans just do the swap and keep a stock or even underdrive the supercharger. That will give you more power then a regular modded L27.
Now we move on to the other components:
Supercharger with BCS and BCA
Throttle Body
MAF sensor
PCM (CHIP)
Engine wiring harness (DONT NEED IT)
Accessory brackets
PS pump
All idlers and tensioners
LIM
Fuel Injectors
Fuel pump (L27 pump is different than L67) (FACTORY PUMP WILL BE HAVE MORE THEN ENOUGH TO KEEP UP)
Fuel rail (unsure about the FPR but possible)
Crank pulley and belts
Associated gaskets
Motor/trans mounts should be done at this time due to increased torque
Supercharger with BCS and BCA
Throttle Body
MAF sensor
PCM (CHIP)
Engine wiring harness (DONT NEED IT)
Accessory brackets
PS pump
All idlers and tensioners
LIM
Fuel Injectors
Fuel pump (L27 pump is different than L67) (FACTORY PUMP WILL BE HAVE MORE THEN ENOUGH TO KEEP UP)
Fuel rail (unsure about the FPR but possible)
Crank pulley and belts
Associated gaskets
Motor/trans mounts should be done at this time due to increased torque
Or simply a full swap to save the money and labor/time. Or better yet, sell the car and buy an SSEi.
BlazinLo, while I admire your 'you can do it' attitude, we try very hard to make sure people get the 'big picture' on this Forum. Our goal is to insure people get the performance and reliability to make their experience better. Saving money and time is a big thing for us.
#15
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Bonney Lake/Ellensburg, Washington- WCBF '04, '05, '06, '07 Survivor-
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Now we move on to the other components:
Supercharger with BCS and BCA
Throttle Body
MAF sensor
PCM (CHIP)
Engine wiring harness (DONT NEED IT)
Accessory brackets
PS pump
All idlers and tensioners
LIM
Fuel Injectors
Fuel pump (L27 pump is different than L67) (FACTORY PUMP WILL BE HAVE MORE THEN ENOUGH TO KEEP UP)
Fuel rail (unsure about the FPR but possible)
Crank pulley and belts
Associated gaskets
Motor/trans mounts should be done at this time due to increased torque
Supercharger with BCS and BCA
Throttle Body
MAF sensor
PCM (CHIP)
Engine wiring harness (DONT NEED IT)
Accessory brackets
PS pump
All idlers and tensioners
LIM
Fuel Injectors
Fuel pump (L27 pump is different than L67) (FACTORY PUMP WILL BE HAVE MORE THEN ENOUGH TO KEEP UP)
Fuel rail (unsure about the FPR but possible)
Crank pulley and belts
Associated gaskets
Motor/trans mounts should be done at this time due to increased torque
All those parts you can get for around $500.
#16
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Kyle'* car never saw boost at the low end. And he RARELY used it, and he only had the juice on the car for a very short period of time.
Ryan who?
Sortof defeats the whole purpose, doesn't it?
Assuming you're a bargain hunter, sure. You can also get a full swap setup including subframe for that price. Assuming you're a bargain hunter.
BS. I have (at all times) at least a dozen SSEi'* or SC/SLE'* available within 200 miles of me. And they're far more affordable than they were 3 years ago.
Ryan who?
If you are really worried about the trans just do the swap and keep a stock or even underdrive the supercharger. That will give you more power then a regular modded L27.
All those parts you can get for around $500
It is hard to find a good condition Bonnie.
#17
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Originally Posted by willwren
Kyle'* car never saw boost at the low end. And he RARELY used it, and he only had the juice on the car for a very short period of time.
Ryan who?
If you are really worried about the trans just do the swap and keep a stock or even underdrive the supercharger. That will give you more power then a regular modded L27.
All those parts you can get for around $500
It is hard to find a good condition Bonnie.
#18
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Bonney Lake/Ellensburg, Washington- WCBF '04, '05, '06, '07 Survivor-
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Kyle'* car saw N20 though. N20 does raise TQ too! Actually it was prob. harder on the trans engine then boost/supercharger would have been.
Bargain hunter? It is quite easy to find all that stuff cheep. Goto the junk yard and find a blown up L67 BAM! $200. Ryan got all those iteams for $300 and they only had 15K miles on them.
Then find me a '94-'95 SSEi around my area with 70,000 miles on it with no rust, not one dent/scratch, perfect clearcoat, perfect interior, etc. You will not find it!
#19
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Ryan Carter is an engine builder by trade. That being said, the only timeslip I see from him is almost 2 years old, and was 15.771.
I wasn't aware of any top end changes in his car.
Trying to keep up with thousands of members is quite difficult. How about some details on his setup? How much boost? How long ago? Track times? What components were added/replaced? I'm not having any luck finding the information posted here.
And what about costs (granted, considering his employment, he'* in a much better position to do this type of work and get bargains when he needs them).
If you have a point to prove, go ahead and try this. You're either going to have a lower performing car (compared to an SSEi), a less reliable drivetrain, or greater expense out of pocket compared to the other two preferred options.
I wasn't aware of any top end changes in his car.
~ Current Mods ~
American Eagle Alloy 077 series 18"*
Hancook 245/45/18
Custom Cold Air intake w/box and K/N
Drill 180 stat
A/C Delco Platium Plugs
Bosch 8mm Plug Wires
MAF Screen Removed
Upgraded Alternator Wire
B&M 28,000GVW Trans cooler w/Braded lines and custom fittings
Headlight cover
L. Plate cover
Tinted taillights
Tinted windows 35% all the way around
Undercoated
Flowmaster 80 series muffler
Urathan sway bar endlink kits
Ceramic pads
Painted Calipers and drums
Converted to dexcool
American Eagle Alloy 077 series 18"*
Hancook 245/45/18
Custom Cold Air intake w/box and K/N
Drill 180 stat
A/C Delco Platium Plugs
Bosch 8mm Plug Wires
MAF Screen Removed
Upgraded Alternator Wire
B&M 28,000GVW Trans cooler w/Braded lines and custom fittings
Headlight cover
L. Plate cover
Tinted taillights
Tinted windows 35% all the way around
Undercoated
Flowmaster 80 series muffler
Urathan sway bar endlink kits
Ceramic pads
Painted Calipers and drums
Converted to dexcool
And what about costs (granted, considering his employment, he'* in a much better position to do this type of work and get bargains when he needs them).
If you have a point to prove, go ahead and try this. You're either going to have a lower performing car (compared to an SSEi), a less reliable drivetrain, or greater expense out of pocket compared to the other two preferred options.
#20
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Originally Posted by driverjohn2005
Kyle'* car saw N20 though. N20 does raise TQ too! Actually it was prob. harder on the trans engine then boost/supercharger would have been.