Need help making a toggle work
#21
Senior Member
True Car Nut
This is basicly the circuit. Pins 1,2 & 3 may vary on your switch, though. That'* the reason for the question marks.
Originally Posted by FiReDeViL
when wiring a lighted switch, look on the BODY of the switch it shoudl say pwr, acc, and ground
*EDIT* The diagram was fixed.
#23
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Thanks everyone, I got it working. I went out and bought some of those clips and they work really good! Now, I got a new question. Since I am using the fuses from the fuse box underneath the dash, how many wires can I run down there without causing any damage? And, when I was testing it out just a few minutes ago, then shut the car off, I still had power going to my toggle and the device it was powering. The fuse I am using is the radio fuse, and the doors were open to! I might try other fuses like AC or wipers, since I know for sure they shutdown when the car is off. Or having power to the toggle constantly is ok? I think I am going to hook up a neon instead of the radar detector, since I dont have any cool places to put it. I was thinking in the grille but how would I hear it or see the lights then?
#24
Senior Member
True Car Nut
I've never been a big fan of "fuse tapping". Years ago, an installer used one of those brass looking fuse taps while installing a phone. The customer returned with a ton of intermittent electrical problems. Come to find out, the fuse tap widened the slot too far and made a crappy connection. The Acura dealer quoted over $400 for fuse box replacement. After that I always went directly to the ignition wires or battery to get power. Plus, there'* no guessing:
Red: constant 12v
pink: ignition
brown: accessory
orange: heater circuit
Red: constant 12v
pink: ignition
brown: accessory
orange: heater circuit
#25
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Re: Need help making a toggle work
Originally Posted by Twister97
Trying to hook up the toggle, and eventually to the radar detector. Right now I am using a little neon light as a test dummy to see if I can get it working but no luck so far.
Originally Posted by Twister97
The toggle has three prongs in the bottom of it. Do I need to use all three? The yellow wire is for the power going into the fuse box, the black one is the ground, then the white looking one is for the neon light tester.
And for Gawd'* sake get yourself some 14-gauge (blue-insulator) female crimp-on spade lugs; those are what are supposed to be connected to those contacts on the back of the switch. You can buy the crimping tool and a little assortment of connectors at Wal-Mart for a few bucks. Your switch will never work reliably if wires are just twisted on to the back lugs, and the potential for shorting directly to the ground tab is high.
I'm sure the indicator light in that switch is rated for 12 volts; I think I've seen that exact switch at Wal-Mart and it is indeed a 12-volt LED; an external resistor is not required. Good luck...
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