How to keep your low beams on with your highs (quad beam)
#1
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How to keep your low beams on with your highs (quad beam)
Okay, well I had a burst of inspiration today with my factory service manuals and figured this one out on my own. Here'* what I did.
To do this, you need a relay powering the low beams, otherwise this will not work. Which, if you have HIDs you should anyway, there simply is no good reason not to, whether it works on stock wiring or not. If you have stock halogens, buying a low beam 9006 relay would help your output a lot and allow you to do this mod safely.
I bought a 99 cent diode from radioshack. Wired in a jumper wire with the diode attached from the high beam power wire (green on mine) to the input switch for the low beam relay. This way, the diode will not allow the low beam power to escape back to the high beams. As it turns out, the lower voltage power coming from the DRLs, perimeter lighting etc is NOT enough to trip the relay and activate the low beams, so everything performs to 100% factory spec, except now the lows stay on with the highs without a single flicker. In addition, with this method there should be no concern with overtaxing the electrical system, considering the low beams get all their power from the relay.
Perimeter lighting doing it'* job:
Low beams only (look blue cause they're warming up)
Lows and highs:
This would be a good how-to for someone trying to get dual high/low beams with their aftermarket HID system, or on stock halogens.
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To do this, you need a relay powering the low beams, otherwise this will not work. Which, if you have HIDs you should anyway, there simply is no good reason not to, whether it works on stock wiring or not. If you have stock halogens, buying a low beam 9006 relay would help your output a lot and allow you to do this mod safely.
I bought a 99 cent diode from radioshack. Wired in a jumper wire with the diode attached from the high beam power wire (green on mine) to the input switch for the low beam relay. This way, the diode will not allow the low beam power to escape back to the high beams. As it turns out, the lower voltage power coming from the DRLs, perimeter lighting etc is NOT enough to trip the relay and activate the low beams, so everything performs to 100% factory spec, except now the lows stay on with the highs without a single flicker. In addition, with this method there should be no concern with overtaxing the electrical system, considering the low beams get all their power from the relay.
Perimeter lighting doing it'* job:
Low beams only (look blue cause they're warming up)
Lows and highs:
This would be a good how-to for someone trying to get dual high/low beams with their aftermarket HID system, or on stock halogens.
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#5
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Certified GM nut
On my car, I've found that pulling the multifunction lever once to turn the highs on, and then pulling it and holding it toward you has the same effect (until you let go, then the highs turn off).
Hope this helps in your reverse-engineering.
Hope this helps in your reverse-engineering.
#6
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Yes, good point, it may not be legal...but I'd be very surprised if anyone said anything about it. Many cars have continuous low beams with their highs these days.
Drove it all over the place tonight highs on/off and everything else. Still working 100%!
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Drove it all over the place tonight highs on/off and everything else. Still working 100%!
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#7
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Certified Car Nut
I like it!. But will wait while this project gets some hours on it before I attempt. Let us know about if the heat does anything negative. Around here I drive woth the highs contantly and having both will help with all the deer here bent on suicide. If I could burn all 3, that would be Awesome.
Got the Diode part # handy?
Got the Diode part # handy?
#8
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Will do. So far it seems everything is doing fine. Headlight switch is staying at ambient temperature.
As far as the housing heat, I'm almost positive it could take the heat of both high and low halogen, but I am running HID lows and halogen highs, so it stays a little cooler. Lens is only slightly warm after extended running.
Part number for the diode on RadioShack is 276-0563.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2049725
Okay, the diodes were $1.39, not $0.99, my mistake lol.
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As far as the housing heat, I'm almost positive it could take the heat of both high and low halogen, but I am running HID lows and halogen highs, so it stays a little cooler. Lens is only slightly warm after extended running.
Part number for the diode on RadioShack is 276-0563.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2049725
Okay, the diodes were $1.39, not $0.99, my mistake lol.
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#9
Administratus Emeritus
Certified Car Nut
GXP'* are HIR so I'm just a little concerned. I have pulled back on the lever to get both many times. Would be cool to have this.