I finally got the dash torn apart and found the cable got kinked at the control end. I noticed that the floor door was causing a lot of resistance on the cable. I could not see the doors but did manage to see the cam and grooves that the cable operate so I sprayed the cams with PB Blaster and let set overnight. I also sprayed down the sides of the box in the areas that I figured the axles would be. The next day, I used my hand to work the cam and it eventually loosened up. My cable had been worked to a point that I knew not to use it, so off to the local pull a part and $3 later, I have my new/used cable. I did reverse the cable from how it was taken off the junker. After putting everything back, the **** now operates the ducts properly.
On another site, a commenter suggested leaving the **** in the defrost position when the unit is turned off. I can see why because the cable is into the housing as far as it can go, which will use a pull motion when the cable is used.
Hope this helps someone.