I think I am going to end up replacing the MAF sensor. It 'works' and I can drive around fine with decent gas mileage but might as well do it. Right now I am looking at the Dorman part 917-849 with 4 good reviews for $85 on amazon or the ACDelco 213-4343 for $165 on amazon. I usually try to stick with ACDelco, but its usually around 25% more, not 100%. Any thoughts or experiences with Dorman vs. ACDelco?

Most Dorman parts are ok, but when it comes to sensors I always try to go AC Delco as IMO they tend to be better in the long run.
Dorman claims they test them to be sure they work just as well as the OE sensors.

Most places won't accept a return on a part like a MAF, at least auto parts stores won't, not sure about Amazon.
I'm not sure I'd replace the MAF just to replace it, I checked mine on an Actron Scan Tool I had, and it was running too low at idle to keep my car running smoothly, even after cleaning it the same issue.
Bought a new AC Delco and it has ran fine for around 4 years now.
If Amazon will take a return on the product if it does not perform right, and you have a scanner that will show what the MAF is reading, the you could get the Dorman one and compare it to the OE Delco one, if it runs the same of better than just keep it and save some money.

I just went outside and did a quick voltage test for the MAF sensor. I got a baseline reading of 2.5V at idle and i opened up the throttle a couple times by hand and the reading didn't appear to change (less that .1 volts). I'm guessing this would mean its not working properly if the voltage doesn't change or do I need to run it longer or slowly accelerate?

You cannot properly test the MAF via voltage, unless you have a scanner that can read in hertz.
Or if you have a scan tool that can read it and display the results in gram/sec, or lbs/min.
This is the Actron scanner I use, it is a little pricey, but good to have, I think there may be a cheaper model that will also display the MAF'* live data.
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9575-...6994697&sr=8-1

Here is a newer/cheaper model of that scanner.
If I bought one for around that price I'd consider the CP9580A though, it has the ability to graph live data which is good, also you can read/erase ABS codes with it.



You could just get a multi-meter like this one It reads from 9-50 Hz, and I am pretty sure that is enough to test the MAF.
I am not sure what Hz the MAF runs at per amount of air entering, really I don't think there is an exact number, you just look to see if it normally increases and decreases frequency as RPM'* go up and down.
Give this a read.

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/3....nostic-tests-1

First off, don't clean a MAF with rubbing alcohol because doing so requires you to use a Q-tip or something like that. Use a proper MAF spray so there is no contact with the wires (other than the spray). Also, a proper MAF spray won't leave any residue that could affect the MAF functionality.

Second, if you see wires unraveled on the MAF you need a new MAF. You can buy all the test equipment you want, but they will only tell you the MAF needs to be replaced.

I pulled out the sensor to get a pic of it and part of the plastic on it came off which appears to just be structural but extremely annoying. I've yet to try putting it back it but hopefully it'll work fine for now because the ACDelco part will take a few days to arrive. Looking at it now with a camera close-up, it looks like I was envisioning this 'unraveling wire' and it was just dirt built up. I'll run to the store later and get some of the MAF sensor cleaner and do it properly. I poured alcohol on it btw, I didn't actually touch the wires.

Yeah that MAF'* thermistors look pretty bad, I agree it looks dirty more than unraveled, but it is good you are replacing it because the tip looks damaged, or maybe that is just me..
Mine had those pegs that hold the plastic tip on wear down, and the tip would spin in the throttle body AMF bore, and occasionally the car would not start, and sometimes when it started it ran like crap, if you can just leave the tip off, I looked at my readings with it, and without, and could see no real change..

I had a friend use rubbing alcohol and a Q-Tip on his once, he planned to buy a new one anyway, so he was not worried about ruining it, he did not damage it at all, I am guessing any remnants of the cotton from the Q-Tip burnt off the first time the MAF thermistor heated up.
Not that I recommend it, but since you are already ordering a new one I don't see that way damaging your old one to the point where it does not work, if anything I am betting it would work a tad better, they guys I know did.
As for rubbing alcohol, the water in it evaporates in no time, and I don't think the alcohol leaves a residue, well not if you use the 99.9% stuff, like this.
FRYS.com | T.A.

Of course most don;t have that on hand, and a can of MAF Cleaner is a bit cheaper, so it is probably cheapest to just do it right, and not risk it.

So I sprayed down the sensor with the MAF cleaner and am pretty pleased with the visual results. The cleaner was a lot more effective than I thought it would be. Looking at the camera, one of the resistors looks great and the other has slight discoloration but pretty good I'd say. I drove it around the block and it seemed to return to idle faster and overall a bit quieter/smoother (it has been idling pretty well recently, especially since I put some Gumout in the tank last week and the new crank sensor really made a big difference). I'll drive it on the freeway and around town tomorrow which will be the real test.

The part is actually on back-order from Amazon so I haven't ordered it yet. As you can see from the second picture, I ended up super-gluing the plastic tip back on. Thanks for the heads up on the tip spinning around in the throttle body. I'll definitely keep an eye on that, especially since super glue and heat can be interesting (I glued it before I read your post).

At this point the car is very driveable so I'm not in a huge rush now to order the new sensor, so I'll see how it looks after a few days then go from there. Thanks for all the help and advice so far

If that piece should ever decide to break off inside the TB, it will actually stall the engine out because it disrupts the airflow to a point that the PCM thinks its not getting any air. So it cuts the injectors back to prevent flooding.