Thanks Art, water leaks do suck, the mold smell, what I am going to have to go through if I want to totally remove the mold, and there is the rust, I still need to move the carpet and look, but I am almost positive there will be rust.
Is the carpet easy to get back into place if you take it up?
No kind of glue or anything holds it down does it?

The easiest way to deal with it is remove applicable moldings, and peel back and have a peak first. ..
I would normally use a small electric heater or two running all night to dry things, with a prop to hold wet carpet up...and get air under & in there....with all windows down a bit to vent...
It aint going to smell pretty either...until it dries...
If it is really soaked ...use a shop vac & remove as much dampness first before getting heat in there..
What fun...not...hope u find that leak!

Pulling the carpets is usually a matter of removing the front seats, the console, and the door sill trim. The carpet is not glued down. I did it on my Bonneville and it took an hour or so to get it out. I power washed it and left it on my back deck to dry in the sun for 2 days before putting it back in.

Do you have a sunroof?

Sorry, meant to put that the mold smell sucks, as well as what I will have to do to remove the carpet, I knew the front seats had to be removed.
I have no sunroof.
That is what I get when trying to make a post after waking up from a nap, lol

Thanks for the replies guys.

Just finally stopped raining enough today so I could get a look at things, I took some pics, and I am convinced I have at least two areas leaking, just not totally sure of the path the water is taking to get in yet.

Uploading some pics, excuse the dirtiness of the car, I have not been able to clean/detail it lately, you can see some of the dust that has been sticking to certain areas, that lets me know that those areas were taking in water for sure.

The first pic is the brake light area, that right side is where the water seems to be getting in, occasionally it gets in the left side also, but more so on the right, it will pool up inside there.

The other pics are from the rear driver side door area, I noticed water coming from up under the metal surround or whatever you'd call it, the only way I can see it getting in there is from that trim separating that I mentioned, the little dark circle area you can see was dirt, it looks like a hole in the pic..
The water looks to have been running down from there, and into that vent or whatever it is, I am guessing from there it makes its way to the floorboard.

I plan to replace those brake light housing seals, as I have them here ready to go on, I just need to get some Sika Flex marine grade to use on all the screws that hold the housing onto the car, before it had pads, those are ruined...

As for that trim that is separating, not sure what I can do there, other than use some of the Sika Flex marine grade stuff Art mentioned, and try to seal the area at the trim, as I do not have money to replace that trim at this time, if all else fails I'll get a breathable cover, and a tarp to go over top of that, at least that will also keep the damn pollen off of my car.

Hmm, I read that the silka flex is a bit messy to use, but if it will work better I suppose it is worth the money, I'll spend almost 20.00 on it, so hopefully it applies easily, and not too messily, as I cannot afford to do it twice, is this the exact stuff you were talking about Art?
I wonder if my local hardware store carries that stuff, the shipping cost almost as much as the product.


I already have some clear silicone on hand, but if that won't work that well, or last, then it is worth it to spend more on something that will last.
Hopefully I don't get it all over when trying to seal the trim gaps, I am thinking maybe I should use painters tape to keep from getting it all over the car.

23.87 total shipped, I guess that is not too bad if it works.

If all else fails a tarp will be my only option for the time being.

EDIT: I know I'll need to clean the areas as well as possible, hopefully it is easy to remove that old clear silicone.
Any tips for removing it, and prepping the surface are appreciated.

William the Sika is real easy to use and spreads very well. Dry time varies, and like the 291 LOT product it may be available in black. Dry time I am not sure if a long dry time would help in ur situation but 12-24 hours in normal cure...they do make a fast cure as well but in larger gun type tubes...once opened, it may dry pretty quick...
Here is a link that my help: Bonding | Sika Corporation U.*.
The main advantage in Sika it wont fall apart like silicone years down the road and will seal areas very well long term.
The cheaper alternative is using a roofing Urethane...it sticks well & is $5 per tube.

Thanks Art, I did not realize LOT meant it needed more time, and moisture to cure, although I do seem to have plenty of that moisture, lol
I'd rather have a faster cure I think, but I don't want to have to get a bigger tube, and caulking gun, my caulk gun is the 10.3 oz size...
Ahh, found the 291 in a 10.3 oz tube.

Did you see that vent or whatever in my last attached pic?
What is that for?
It is not in an area where it would be a heating/ac vent, of course I have never turned my air on to see, it just doesn't make sense as a heat/ac vent.

The sikaflex should also be available in squeeze tubes without any gun at your local marine store outlets...
Im not really sure what the vent thing serves for....I not sure water would get in from there ...unless it is leaking onto floor though a crack in the door panel somehow..

i imagine those vents are to keep moisture down like in your house