Time for some mechanicing!
#1
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Time for some mechanicing!
Time to get some wrench time in today, a nice, 55* overcast day. Items on the agenda:
Transmission leak: Ever since I replaced the radiator soon after I got the car <shy of 3 years now> the transmission cooler line has leaked. It could be due to improper installation, I don't pretend to be perfect. What should I look for? The line leaks right where it connects to the radiator. What makes the seal? What usually leaks, and what is the typical fix? I have heard the flared end seals on the radiator, and if not mated correctly, it could cause the issue. Also, there is a recall out on the transmission lines. I plan on replacing the rubber in the lines, as it looks pretty bad. One side on each hose is crimped on, while the other side has a hose clamp. I intend to cut the crimp bands off, replace the rubber, then remount with hose clamps. Any objections to this method of repair?
Coolant leak: I suspect there is one, and I suspect it is a direct result of the above leak, as it drips right on the lower radiator hose. I have both radiator hoses on hand to replace, bypass hose has been replaced in the last year, only coolant hoses left are the heater hoses. I plan to check them, and replace as necessary. If they need to be replaced, are they preformed hoses, and must be preformed, or can I get away with straight hose? Also, to replace the radiator hoses, I plan to pull the radiator, should make fixing the transmission leak that much easier, and it gives me a chance to drain the coolant system. The coolant to water ratio has been looking a little scarce lately, and why not, it is easy enough to take it out :-$
Drive-ability issue: Seems to be a slight shudder under anything between light and heavy throttle, and a vibration at 80mph when cruising. Tires have been balanced lately, I suspect a vacuum leak. It has plenty of 18 year old vacuum lines on it, easy enough to justify and correct replacing some vacuum line. It could be an ignition issue, but that will come at a later time if the issue persists.
I also seem to recall starvation of the transmission pump coming up on a TSB at one point when parked on an incline. I feel this is affecting me, as any non casual left turn is met with pump chatter. What was the commonly accepted solution? I seem to remember overfilling, but I don't recall the amount. Anyone remember?
I welcome any questions, comments, concerns, or suggestions. Even answers to question will be good too!
Transmission leak: Ever since I replaced the radiator soon after I got the car <shy of 3 years now> the transmission cooler line has leaked. It could be due to improper installation, I don't pretend to be perfect. What should I look for? The line leaks right where it connects to the radiator. What makes the seal? What usually leaks, and what is the typical fix? I have heard the flared end seals on the radiator, and if not mated correctly, it could cause the issue. Also, there is a recall out on the transmission lines. I plan on replacing the rubber in the lines, as it looks pretty bad. One side on each hose is crimped on, while the other side has a hose clamp. I intend to cut the crimp bands off, replace the rubber, then remount with hose clamps. Any objections to this method of repair?
Coolant leak: I suspect there is one, and I suspect it is a direct result of the above leak, as it drips right on the lower radiator hose. I have both radiator hoses on hand to replace, bypass hose has been replaced in the last year, only coolant hoses left are the heater hoses. I plan to check them, and replace as necessary. If they need to be replaced, are they preformed hoses, and must be preformed, or can I get away with straight hose? Also, to replace the radiator hoses, I plan to pull the radiator, should make fixing the transmission leak that much easier, and it gives me a chance to drain the coolant system. The coolant to water ratio has been looking a little scarce lately, and why not, it is easy enough to take it out :-$
Drive-ability issue: Seems to be a slight shudder under anything between light and heavy throttle, and a vibration at 80mph when cruising. Tires have been balanced lately, I suspect a vacuum leak. It has plenty of 18 year old vacuum lines on it, easy enough to justify and correct replacing some vacuum line. It could be an ignition issue, but that will come at a later time if the issue persists.
I also seem to recall starvation of the transmission pump coming up on a TSB at one point when parked on an incline. I feel this is affecting me, as any non casual left turn is met with pump chatter. What was the commonly accepted solution? I seem to remember overfilling, but I don't recall the amount. Anyone remember?
I welcome any questions, comments, concerns, or suggestions. Even answers to question will be good too!
#2
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Jerk.. go ahead...mention your temps again.
On the trans line. I'd suggest you use two FI clamps on each end of the hoses. If you can, it would be best to put a bubble (type of gentle flare) on the end you cut. If not, it'* not usually bad, just nice to have. The flare at the radiator shouldn't leak, no sealant or anything is needed. Pull it back apart and ensure the threads are ok. If they are give both pieces a good wipe with a rag where they connect and try again.
Drippin on the rad hose.. hmmm visual is going to be your best bet there. Hopefully an easy one.
Driveability: er uh..yeah..let'* suggest those hoses. We know about rubber parts in your climate drying out. They are likely the issue.
Remind me what year you have? On hard left turns the 4T65 can have a lot of fluid slosh right and cause the pump to be dry. It'* been suggested by Intesne for a while now that you overfill past the top mark by 1/2 a quart. I've done this successfully for a couple years myself.
On the trans line. I'd suggest you use two FI clamps on each end of the hoses. If you can, it would be best to put a bubble (type of gentle flare) on the end you cut. If not, it'* not usually bad, just nice to have. The flare at the radiator shouldn't leak, no sealant or anything is needed. Pull it back apart and ensure the threads are ok. If they are give both pieces a good wipe with a rag where they connect and try again.
Drippin on the rad hose.. hmmm visual is going to be your best bet there. Hopefully an easy one.
Driveability: er uh..yeah..let'* suggest those hoses. We know about rubber parts in your climate drying out. They are likely the issue.
Remind me what year you have? On hard left turns the 4T65 can have a lot of fluid slosh right and cause the pump to be dry. It'* been suggested by Intesne for a while now that you overfill past the top mark by 1/2 a quart. I've done this successfully for a couple years myself.
#3
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
I have a '93, complete with L27 and 4t-60.
I learned a lot on that excursion. I thought the transmission cooler lines were a different configuration than what they were, so when the die grinder came out and the fitting came off, the crap hit the fan. Thankfully a friend was there to haul me to the local fitting place, and got a new fitting on there, with some new hose. $15 mistake, that landed me with a new rubber line on one side.
I also learned that while the radiator replacement on these cars is comparatively easier than most cars, it still is not a walk in the park. I didn't have to replace mine, but it made it easier to get to most things with it out <flushed it too, and crap came out>. I pulled the FACTORY ORIGINAL bottom radiator hose off. It still had some fight in it too, but having transmission fluid leaked on it didn't help it at all.
I also picked up a recharge kit for the intake, gonna knock that out today. easy enough
Interesting however, was the replacement of that vacuum line. The car seems to idle better, and still has a slight shutter, but not as bad as it was. It seems that throttle response is down, and power is down as well. The battery was disconnected during repairs, so I suspect that is some of it. I need to confirm the IAT sensor is in the airstream, and clean the air filter. I hope that clears it up. Also replaced the PCV valve. I wonder how much that helped as well. It was probably the original too. I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak by the firewall, but I wonder if that was the powersteering pump.
I learned a lot on that excursion. I thought the transmission cooler lines were a different configuration than what they were, so when the die grinder came out and the fitting came off, the crap hit the fan. Thankfully a friend was there to haul me to the local fitting place, and got a new fitting on there, with some new hose. $15 mistake, that landed me with a new rubber line on one side.
I also learned that while the radiator replacement on these cars is comparatively easier than most cars, it still is not a walk in the park. I didn't have to replace mine, but it made it easier to get to most things with it out <flushed it too, and crap came out>. I pulled the FACTORY ORIGINAL bottom radiator hose off. It still had some fight in it too, but having transmission fluid leaked on it didn't help it at all.
I also picked up a recharge kit for the intake, gonna knock that out today. easy enough
Interesting however, was the replacement of that vacuum line. The car seems to idle better, and still has a slight shutter, but not as bad as it was. It seems that throttle response is down, and power is down as well. The battery was disconnected during repairs, so I suspect that is some of it. I need to confirm the IAT sensor is in the airstream, and clean the air filter. I hope that clears it up. Also replaced the PCV valve. I wonder how much that helped as well. It was probably the original too. I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak by the firewall, but I wonder if that was the powersteering pump.
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