PAC SWI-X trouble
#1
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PAC SWI-X trouble
well i got it all wired in and i had it all programed but when i was done the right LED started flickering and the last function programed started to change (example VOL ^ last to be set then the volune started to increase uncontrolably when the imiter was pointed at the HU) So after this happend i cleared the SWI and tryed again, samething then again same story. But now im trying again but the SWI will not get a signal from the remote so i am compleatly unable to program now, and i know its not the remote itself because it work when pointed at the HU just not when its pointed at the SWI
If anyone has any sugestions Id love to hear them
If anyone has any sugestions Id love to hear them
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ok well i got that problem fixed turned out to be a brain freez on my part there was nothing wrong there
But now the problem is that after i get it programed all the wheel buttons control only what the first thing was that i programed like VOL^ WTF is going on with this thing :?:
But now the problem is that after i get it programed all the wheel buttons control only what the first thing was that i programed like VOL^ WTF is going on with this thing :?:
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Originally Posted by Peterg22000
ok well i got that problem fixed turned out to be a brain freez on my part there was nothing wrong there
But now the problem is that after i get it programed all the wheel buttons control only what the first thing was that i programed like VOL^ WTF is going on with this thing :?:
But now the problem is that after i get it programed all the wheel buttons control only what the first thing was that i programed like VOL^ WTF is going on with this thing :?:
#4
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The catch is the steering gear is noisy
The stray resistance on the wheel itself is the culpret and I
never got a responce from pacific audio to how best to filter
Hit their site they have a online calculator that helps set the
"mode" to use (requires time and a multimeter)
When programming if the left light keeps coming on (when the
right one is expected too - program button step) it'* the wheel.
What worked for me is to program in the coolest part of the day
(ie late night or very early) and program the leftmost buttons
to 0<zero> so they are basically programmed out.
Spin the wheel a few times and center it before starting and
dont move it when pushing buttons. again if the unit see'*
a button push when you havent pushed it yet it'* stray
resistance.
You cannot re-program a button have to start the whole
sequence over if you "re-do" a button it seems to encode
the whole prom with it.
I had that happen with scan up - all I did was the scan up button twice
and all the buttons did scan up and it still don't make sense to me. The
steering gear was my issue but if there is little voltage drop between
the buttons the device needs set in a different mode. the PAC site has
a calculator to help with that. I'm a 2k so I think it'* likely a different issue.
Start from scratch clear the prom - set the mode (I use 1) - reprogram
It'* a frustrating device at times but once it'* done it'* done!
Best of luck & I hope you get it without too much more trouble
The stray resistance on the wheel itself is the culpret and I
never got a responce from pacific audio to how best to filter
Hit their site they have a online calculator that helps set the
"mode" to use (requires time and a multimeter)
When programming if the left light keeps coming on (when the
right one is expected too - program button step) it'* the wheel.
What worked for me is to program in the coolest part of the day
(ie late night or very early) and program the leftmost buttons
to 0<zero> so they are basically programmed out.
Spin the wheel a few times and center it before starting and
dont move it when pushing buttons. again if the unit see'*
a button push when you havent pushed it yet it'* stray
resistance.
You cannot re-program a button have to start the whole
sequence over if you "re-do" a button it seems to encode
the whole prom with it.
I had that happen with scan up - all I did was the scan up button twice
and all the buttons did scan up and it still don't make sense to me. The
steering gear was my issue but if there is little voltage drop between
the buttons the device needs set in a different mode. the PAC site has
a calculator to help with that. I'm a 2k so I think it'* likely a different issue.
Start from scratch clear the prom - set the mode (I use 1) - reprogram
It'* a frustrating device at times but once it'* done it'* done!
Best of luck & I hope you get it without too much more trouble
#5
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Originally Posted by HowY
The catch is the steering gear is noisy
The stray resistance on the wheel itself is the culpret and I
never got a responce from pacific audio to how best to filter
Hit their site they have a online calculator that helps set the
"mode" to use (requires time and a multimeter)
When programming if the left light keeps coming on (when the
right one is expected too - program button step) it'* the wheel.
What worked for me is to program in the coolest part of the day
(ie late night or very early) and program the leftmost buttons
to 0<zero> so they are basically programmed out.
Spin the wheel a few times and center it before starting and
dont move it when pushing buttons. again if the unit see'*
a button push when you havent pushed it yet it'* stray
resistance.
FWIW
The stray resistance on the wheel itself is the culpret and I
never got a responce from pacific audio to how best to filter
Hit their site they have a online calculator that helps set the
"mode" to use (requires time and a multimeter)
When programming if the left light keeps coming on (when the
right one is expected too - program button step) it'* the wheel.
What worked for me is to program in the coolest part of the day
(ie late night or very early) and program the leftmost buttons
to 0<zero> so they are basically programmed out.
Spin the wheel a few times and center it before starting and
dont move it when pushing buttons. again if the unit see'*
a button push when you havent pushed it yet it'* stray
resistance.
FWIW
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