spark plugs?
#1
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spark plugs?
Hey guys. Well I decided that I should change my spark plugs due to the fact they haven't been change at all since I owned them and god knows if the old owners changed them. ( don't think so ) But I was wondering if it is hard to do? Or if someone has a write up or better yet picture step by step on how to do it. Also whats a good brand to get??
#2
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They are not hard to change at all. It may be a pain to get the wires off the plugs if they have never been changed, but that'* the biggest possible headache you'd have. I still had the metal heat shields on my wires so it made it harder to remove the wires from the plugs, especially on the rear plugs (#6 was the worst).
As far as changing them goes, do one wire/plug at a time. I start with the front row (1, 3, 5), then the back (2, 4, 6).
Remove the wire from the plug by pulling the boot straight off. If the metal shields are on the wires push them towards the engine to expose more of the boot of the wire (there'* a spring on the end of them).
If you can, use compressed air to clean around the plug hole BEFORE you remove the plugs. Otherwise, try to use a brush to clean debris off from around the hole so nothing falls into the cylinder when the plug is removed.
Use a spark plug socket to remove the plugs. A ratchet and a 3" extension works well for me. Remove the plug.
Take your new plug and slowly hand-tighten it into the hole to make sure you don't crossthread. Putting the plug in the socket with the extension can help when tightening it by hand. When firm, slowly tighten the plug with the ratchet until snug. Don't over-tighten!
Squeeze a small amount of dilectric grease into the plug boot. Snap the boot on the new plug.
Continue the process for each plug
Using anti-seize on the threads of the spark plugs is also a good idea.
As far as changing them goes, do one wire/plug at a time. I start with the front row (1, 3, 5), then the back (2, 4, 6).
Remove the wire from the plug by pulling the boot straight off. If the metal shields are on the wires push them towards the engine to expose more of the boot of the wire (there'* a spring on the end of them).
If you can, use compressed air to clean around the plug hole BEFORE you remove the plugs. Otherwise, try to use a brush to clean debris off from around the hole so nothing falls into the cylinder when the plug is removed.
Use a spark plug socket to remove the plugs. A ratchet and a 3" extension works well for me. Remove the plug.
Take your new plug and slowly hand-tighten it into the hole to make sure you don't crossthread. Putting the plug in the socket with the extension can help when tightening it by hand. When firm, slowly tighten the plug with the ratchet until snug. Don't over-tighten!
Squeeze a small amount of dilectric grease into the plug boot. Snap the boot on the new plug.
Continue the process for each plug
Using anti-seize on the threads of the spark plugs is also a good idea.
#3
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Also, at 114,000 miles you should change the wires too. If they are original it'* not a bad idea. Change these one a time to avoid confusion. Get your new wire set and arrange them from shortest to longest. Start with the #1 plug/wire and do the front 3 (1, 3, 5), then the three in back (2, 4, 6).
The wires go from shortest to longest starting with #1, 3, 5, 2, 4, and then 6 being the longest. Usually 2 and 4 are just about the same length.
Also, check the gap on your plugs before installing. They sell round gapping tools at auto stores, usually at the counter. .060 is the stock gap.
The wires go from shortest to longest starting with #1, 3, 5, 2, 4, and then 6 being the longest. Usually 2 and 4 are just about the same length.
Also, check the gap on your plugs before installing. They sell round gapping tools at auto stores, usually at the counter. .060 is the stock gap.
#5
My personal choice is Napa Belden "Blue" wires or ACDelco Wires, and ACDelco, NGK, or Autolite plugs. Absolutely NO Bosch, they do not fare well with the 3800'* waste spark system.
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Yes, just remove the wires and corresponding plugs one at a time. They snap on the coil and plug. Just take note of how they are routed before you remove them so you run the wires the same way.
Use dilectric grease in both ends of the wires.
Make sure none of the wires in back touch the oxygen sensor or O2 sensor harness. This will cause misfires/rough idling.
Use dilectric grease in both ends of the wires.
Make sure none of the wires in back touch the oxygen sensor or O2 sensor harness. This will cause misfires/rough idling.
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