slight change to puck mount mod - added pics
#1
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True Car Nut
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slight change to puck mount mod - added pics
I tried the puck mount this week, and although it definitely helped response and smoothed out shifing, I didn't like the vibration I was feeling under light acceleration. So I made a change. I put in a longer 1/2" threaded rod, and added a puck and a washer above the motor mount bracket flange. Now I have washers and 3 pucks between the motor mount flange and the cross member, and 1 puck with 2 washers (one on either side of the puck) between the motor mount bracket flange and the nuts on the top of the threaded rod. The motor mount flange is now between 2 pucks, and the direct metal-to-metal contact to the cross member is eliminated.
The vibration is hardly noticable now, and much more acceptable.
I read most of the threads on this mod I could find, and would like to add a couple of comments. First, someone had mentioned using 5/8" threaded rod, but on my car (2001 SSEi) 5/8" would not pass through the motor mount bracket flange, I had to use 1/2". Second, when I placed a jack stand under the motor mount bracket between the cross member and the engine and lowered the car, the engine did not lift high enough to get the old motor mount out (too long from top bolt to bottom one). I repositioned the jack stand off the motor mount, re-lowered the car, and undid the 3 bolts to remove the motor mount bracket which allowed easy removal of the motor mount.
I apologize if my tweak of the puck mount mod has already been posted, and I just missed it. A lot of the threads complain about the vibration and I thought you might like to know what I did to improve it. I hope my explanation is obvious, but I can post pics if someone wants to understand it better.
Roy
The vibration is hardly noticable now, and much more acceptable.
I read most of the threads on this mod I could find, and would like to add a couple of comments. First, someone had mentioned using 5/8" threaded rod, but on my car (2001 SSEi) 5/8" would not pass through the motor mount bracket flange, I had to use 1/2". Second, when I placed a jack stand under the motor mount bracket between the cross member and the engine and lowered the car, the engine did not lift high enough to get the old motor mount out (too long from top bolt to bottom one). I repositioned the jack stand off the motor mount, re-lowered the car, and undid the 3 bolts to remove the motor mount bracket which allowed easy removal of the motor mount.
I apologize if my tweak of the puck mount mod has already been posted, and I just missed it. A lot of the threads complain about the vibration and I thought you might like to know what I did to improve it. I hope my explanation is obvious, but I can post pics if someone wants to understand it better.
Roy
#3
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So you put a puck on top of the transmission mount bracket?
Hmm... I don't know if mine would have let one fit on top..
I agree... pictures would be awesome.
Hmm... I don't know if mine would have let one fit on top..
I agree... pictures would be awesome.
#4
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
I don't know if I am posting these images correctly.
The stack of pieces on the threaded road, from the bottom moving up:
- 2 nuts
- washer
- cross member
- 2 washers, 1 larger washer
- 3 pucks
- 1 larger washer, 2 washers
- motor mount bracket
- washer
- puck
- large washer
- washer
- 2 nuts
Roy
#5
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
With a couple more locals picking up the 00+'* lately..I've been thinking something on top as well.
Having made a solid mount for my older gen... I did find pucks cut nicely with a hole saw and would probably cut down the top puck to a smaller diameter for asthetics only.
Great information..
Having made a solid mount for my older gen... I did find pucks cut nicely with a hole saw and would probably cut down the top puck to a smaller diameter for asthetics only.
Great information..
#6
RIP
True Car Nut
Looks good. I think that I'l give that a try too The thin neoprene washers that I used didn't quite do it. Where I find the vibration most objectionable is at idle, waiting at a light.
#7
-- SITE DONATOR --
True Car Nut
I like the set that I made... Found a nice durable length of super plastic about 3 feet long, cut about 10 mounts out of it, drilled holes, put a piece of rubber on top or underneath of it to reduce vibration, and I've put one in both my 00+ bonnevilles. Sent one out to Mouse, don't know if he ever got it put in.
#8
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i made a solid mount out of 1/8in wall 2 1/2in square tubing lol mine has worked for 3 yrs dont mind the vibration... i eventually made all my motor and trans mounts solid. i love it i can feel how my engine is responding and running also holeshots harder it seems like
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