I just picked up the SLE from the mechanic for the upper intake manifold being replaced and the car still has a really bad hard-start problem. In fact, when I tried to start it to bring it home it would just crank over continuously and didn't even give any indication of being close to starting. By some miracle the car finally started, but I'm stumped as to what the problem is. Once the car is running it runs like glass, it'* impressively smooth and there isn't a loss of power at all, acceleration is as it should be, and economy is just fine as well. You just don't want to turn the engine off though! hah. It'* really wierd because it cranks just fine, it just doesn't sound like it'* sparking or something, it doesn't make sense. I thought that maybe it'* a possible crank shaft position sensor problem, but it starts hard every time. It takes 3-4 tries to get it started most times. The tachometer is working normally as well. Fuel pressure is also working fine and I can't see any apparent problems. I should also add that just after the engine starts, it runs VERY rough for the first 5 or so seconds. It has a bad miss, but suddenly smooths out and runs fine after that. Ideas? It seems like the computer should be telling me something about why it'* running rough, but it isn't for some reason.

Just to confirm, no check engine light, right? It sounds fuel related to me.

How many lbs. of pressure do you have at the fuel rail? It should read in the upper 40s.

How old is the fuel filter? It could be clogged.

And, has the fuel pressure regulator ever been replaced? There was a recall on 98 and newer L36s for faulty fuel pressure regulators. Mine never failed, but I did have it replaced free of charge.

Based on what you described, I'm leaning toward clogged fuel filter and/or faulty regulator.

I just got my car back from having my motor replaced. Two weeks before that, i had my intake gasket replaced, but the damage to the motor had already been done. Only took 2 weeks for the motor to give up. I didn't have any hard starts, but the engine ran pretty rough those 2 weeks. This motor runs like a dream. Glad my other motor blew.

Were the plugs changed?
Make sure the fuel injector wires are on the correct injectors.

BoneZ, can we try to keep this on topic out of respect to the topic author?

I thought i was on topic. Go ahead and delete my post, sorry for posting.

Thanks for all the speedy replies guys!
Vital, I'm glad you mentioned the FPR, I totally forgot about that recall! I don't think my brother got it done, although he did buy the car only 2 years ago, so I think it might have been done before he bought the car. I will have to consult the dealer to see if they have any record of it being done. The mechanic tested the fuel pressure when it wouldn't start and I believe he said it was 48 with the ignition on, engine not running? I cna't remember for sure though. Everything on this car is original as far as emissions are concerned. The fuel filter, spark plugs, and wires are all original. It just seems like the engine would run poorly under WOT, etc, if it were fuel related? I could be wrong though? The check engine light hasn't turned on, and there aren't any codes which is what leads me to believe it'* not a sensor. The FPR though sounds like the best bet to me?


Ted, the fuel injector wires all appear to be fine and connected to the right injectors.

Finally.. there'* a clue as to what it could be! Tonight the SVS light came on (service vehicle soon, not service engine soon.), and the Security light on the dash stays illuminated. The DIC is alternating between two messages, one was "service theft system," and the other message was "theft attempted." The lights aren't going out. I scanned for codes again but I get the feeling that dealers can only pull these types of codes? My scanner came up with nothing.

Have you tried starting using another key?

I just reread my post and forgot to mention that the car has a remote starter installed as well! I'm an idiot. anyways, what I've found is that the car seems to always start immediately with the remote starter, it only has issues with the non-start condition when the key is used. It does this with either of the ignition keys. I don't know if there'* a problem with the remote starter that was installed 1.5 years ago, or if there'* a loose wire, or if maybe the ignition switch is going out? It'* hard to test because the car starts every time lately, it just takes several seconds of cranking to start.