What causes the engine to "miss" in O/D? updated
#11
Senior Member
Posts like a Supercharger
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Orlando Florida
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would follow the already given advice and change the PLUGS and WIRES first. I had a wire that died on me and my 96 ran like A$$. I spent money i didnt need to trying to fix problems that weren't there. Follow Occam'* Razor
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam's_Razor
and try to take a Scientific Approach to car repair......
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam's_Razor
and try to take a Scientific Approach to car repair......
#12
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As noted on another thread, cleaning the MAF sensor is quick, easy and cheap. Use special cleaner by CRC for MAFs. Kudos to Sandrock for putting me onto this one.
MAF sensor is black plastic thing, on throttle body, unplug connector, remove 3 phillips screws and it slides out. Should see 2 little short, delicate wires in round hole. Spray clean those. It was like putting on a hoppup kit on mine. Way cool
MAF sensor is black plastic thing, on throttle body, unplug connector, remove 3 phillips screws and it slides out. Should see 2 little short, delicate wires in round hole. Spray clean those. It was like putting on a hoppup kit on mine. Way cool
#13
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you all very much for the great advise. I never thought about cleaning the MAF sensor. Until i joined these forums it never entered my mind. I also appreciate the detail of how to clean the MAF as well. I will certainly start with plugs and wires and go from there. I will clean the MAF sensor. I have access to coil packs that are in very good shape at no cost. Should I go ahead and use them with that in mind? Also, it takes a 5.5 mm socket for the coil packs? Not just a 5mm but 5.5mm? I've, embarrassingly never seen a 5.5mm before. I guess I can pick one up at Advance Auto or Auto Zone I assume? Again, thank you all for the great advise. I can wait to get into this thing and get her running good!!.
I wish I could find a forum this great to help with my '96 Mercury Sable.
I wish I could find a forum this great to help with my '96 Mercury Sable.
#14
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just wanted to let you guys know that many of you who predicted that the plugs and wires should be the cure were correct. I made time to change the plugs and wires today and the engine runs great! Funny thing is the wires that were on there were numbered as to what cylinder each belonged to. Leading me to believe that these wires were still the original factory wires that came on the car! The wires had plastic heat shields on them and I thought I'd try to take the heat shields off and put them on the new ones and they were so brittle that they fell apart before I could work them off. haha. Also the plugs were Bosch platinums and looked like crap. I've heard bad things about Bosch plugs. I replaced them with AC Delco plugs and Autolite lifetime warranty wires.
Now the car is running nice and smoothly. I'm a happy Bonneville owner. For now (knock on wood)
Now the car is running nice and smoothly. I'm a happy Bonneville owner. For now (knock on wood)
#16
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by lunchboxx
Thanks for the Update..but....You'll be back
If not for repairs...for the MOD bug...LOL
If not for repairs...for the MOD bug...LOL
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: BonnevilleHell
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rstrunk
Leading me to believe that these wires were still the original factory wires that came on the car! The wires had plastic heat shields on them and I thought I'd try to take the heat shields off and put them on the new ones and they were so brittle that they fell apart before I could work them off. haha.
Welcome to the wonderfull world of the Bonneville
#18
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Good ol' WV
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I seem to be having a similar problem here. I realize now that i've had a few more than anyone would want to... but this is only the second time i've driven it for an extended period of time at interstate speeds.
Driving is generally a breeze, no problems whatsoever until I am going up a hill. When I have to downshift for power, it'* fine, but when it shifts back up (assumingly into OD) it will only go to about 2000 RPMs before it bounces just around 1800, 2000 over and over and sort of jerks the car as if i were pumping the pedal. if I press harder on the pedal or push it sharply, it will downshift and accelerate like a madman. The problem only occurs on the bottom end of the upper gear. Could this be the wires as well or does it sound more complicated?
Like I said, generally it operates fine until going uphill around 65 mph
Driving is generally a breeze, no problems whatsoever until I am going up a hill. When I have to downshift for power, it'* fine, but when it shifts back up (assumingly into OD) it will only go to about 2000 RPMs before it bounces just around 1800, 2000 over and over and sort of jerks the car as if i were pumping the pedal. if I press harder on the pedal or push it sharply, it will downshift and accelerate like a madman. The problem only occurs on the bottom end of the upper gear. Could this be the wires as well or does it sound more complicated?
Like I said, generally it operates fine until going uphill around 65 mph
#19
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Most ignition problems are more noticable under load at low rpm'*. That means climbing a hill in OD.
Plugs, wires, coils. 95% of the problems with symptoms like yours come back to one of those three things.
Plugs, wires, coils. 95% of the problems with symptoms like yours come back to one of those three things.
#20
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by bad.moshi
So I seem to be having a similar problem here. I realize now that i've had a few more than anyone would want to... but this is only the second time i've driven it for an extended period of time at interstate speeds.
Driving is generally a breeze, no problems whatsoever until I am going up a hill. When I have to downshift for power, it'* fine, but when it shifts back up (assumingly into OD) it will only go to about 2000 RPMs before it bounces just around 1800, 2000 over and over and sort of jerks the car as if i were pumping the pedal. if I press harder on the pedal or push it sharply, it will downshift and accelerate like a madman. The problem only occurs on the bottom end of the upper gear. Could this be the wires as well or does it sound more complicated?
Like I said, generally it operates fine until going uphill around 65 mph
Driving is generally a breeze, no problems whatsoever until I am going up a hill. When I have to downshift for power, it'* fine, but when it shifts back up (assumingly into OD) it will only go to about 2000 RPMs before it bounces just around 1800, 2000 over and over and sort of jerks the car as if i were pumping the pedal. if I press harder on the pedal or push it sharply, it will downshift and accelerate like a madman. The problem only occurs on the bottom end of the upper gear. Could this be the wires as well or does it sound more complicated?
Like I said, generally it operates fine until going uphill around 65 mph