Help! Need all the melted intake info I can get!!!!!!!
#41
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
The EGR system didn't fail though. It worked properly. By working properly it put the expected temperatures and gasses where the engineers designed it to.
The EGR didn't break.. the upper did.
The EGR didn't break.. the upper did.
#42
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I'll just say this... When I bought my 95 SE, I added an extended warranty.... My upper intake ruptured in the extended warranty period and was repaired under warranty.. At the time this was the best warranty plan I could get... It sure did pay for its self before it expired
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#43
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hi i live in montreal and i know where to get a brand new dorman intake for 150$ canadien and i can help you just dont know if it to late don
#44
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It may already be too late for the crank and bearings for a new intake, but there is a cheaper option I believe is better.
Buy a rebuilt upper from Bob Dillon on this Forum for 60 bucks (better than the Dorman IMO), and a reduced diameter stovepipe from Bill Buttermore (custom). Again, better than the alternatives IMO. I've installed both of these on a members car, and believe it to be the closest to a permanent solution. Including ALL GASKETS the total bill is only about 100 bucks.
And GET THAT DEXCOOL out of the car. It'* as much of a problem as the EGR/UIM issue!
Buy a rebuilt upper from Bob Dillon on this Forum for 60 bucks (better than the Dorman IMO), and a reduced diameter stovepipe from Bill Buttermore (custom). Again, better than the alternatives IMO. I've installed both of these on a members car, and believe it to be the closest to a permanent solution. Including ALL GASKETS the total bill is only about 100 bucks.
And GET THAT DEXCOOL out of the car. It'* as much of a problem as the EGR/UIM issue!
#45
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It'* not too late for anything really. The car is sitting at the dealer with the UIM/LIM and both heads off. I'm looking at new head gaskets and a LIM gasket too. I really hope the lower end doesn't corrode. I have have been trying to figure out how to get it home, I have nowhere to put it in Montreal. I'm thinking I have to rent a truck and a tow dolly to bring back to my place where it at least can be garaged.
I am no stranger to engine work, but I'm not the one who took it apart and that'* a big minus for me. I have no experience with these 3.8Ls, only GM smallblock V8s and VW fours :p
I'm going to need the best service manual I can get, and really at this point, with the motor half torn down already and sitting in contaminated oil, I'm really considering an L67 swap. What do you guys think? I can get a low mileage L67 near my home for $900. Use my tranny a short while being nice and easy and get the diff update in ohio when I get the chance? I have the time to work out harness issues, and I already see some info out there on the web.
It'* already a fully loaded SSE, I have the HUD, Bose, Leather, I just lack the */C and the boost gauge, and maybe the selectable suspension.
I am no stranger to engine work, but I'm not the one who took it apart and that'* a big minus for me. I have no experience with these 3.8Ls, only GM smallblock V8s and VW fours :p
I'm going to need the best service manual I can get, and really at this point, with the motor half torn down already and sitting in contaminated oil, I'm really considering an L67 swap. What do you guys think? I can get a low mileage L67 near my home for $900. Use my tranny a short while being nice and easy and get the diff update in ohio when I get the chance? I have the time to work out harness issues, and I already see some info out there on the web.
It'* already a fully loaded SSE, I have the HUD, Bose, Leather, I just lack the */C and the boost gauge, and maybe the selectable suspension.
#46
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Originally Posted by Netscion
I really hope the lower end doesn't corrode. ....... with the motor half torn down already and sitting in contaminated oil,
#48
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Well that'* that then. I will be Uhauling it one way back my garage in NY. When I get it back I'll take some photos and post them if you guys would like to see a catasrophic uppers failure :/ I'll keep ya posted once I have her garaged. Thanks again for all your help guys.
#49
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Don't forget you have many resources here, and locally too if you need it.
To be honest with you, Chilton'* #28200 should be all you need for the repair. But you'll want FSM'* for the swap. At this point, I wouldn't trust the bottom end. Unless you pull the oil pan and a couple rod caps to inspect the crank. NUMBER them if you do that.
To be honest with you, Chilton'* #28200 should be all you need for the repair. But you'll want FSM'* for the swap. At this point, I wouldn't trust the bottom end. Unless you pull the oil pan and a couple rod caps to inspect the crank. NUMBER them if you do that.