Another Coolant Leak Post!
#1
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, Minnesota
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another Coolant Leak Post!
Welp, I've been dealing with a cracked radiator for the last 3 weeks (i've been shopping for a new car)
Today while I was driving I heard a hissing sound from under my hood coming seems like it'* coming from the area of the PCV Valve. I filled the coolant tank up, and low and behold, 4 minutes later there is a giant puddle right in front of the oil pan. I can see a small puddle in a groove a few inches under the PCV valve. but it'* not leaking from there. Any ideas on where to look next? I'd like to get this car to last another month or so. I can try to post pics later on tonight.
Today while I was driving I heard a hissing sound from under my hood coming seems like it'* coming from the area of the PCV Valve. I filled the coolant tank up, and low and behold, 4 minutes later there is a giant puddle right in front of the oil pan. I can see a small puddle in a groove a few inches under the PCV valve. but it'* not leaking from there. Any ideas on where to look next? I'd like to get this car to last another month or so. I can try to post pics later on tonight.
#2
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Twin Lake, MI
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Our '94 cracked it'* crummy little plastic cooling fitting that comes out of the intake manifold. There'* a small hose that comes off of it. It'* right where you're talking about, and it will definitely shut you down (as it did ours).
The other place to look is the water pump which is directly below that. If you're running hot because of the leaking radiator, it can definitely send your WP to water pump heaven.
Another place to look is EVERYwhere
I can tell you from sad experience, stop driving it until you have everything fixed.
Luck !
The other place to look is the water pump which is directly below that. If you're running hot because of the leaking radiator, it can definitely send your WP to water pump heaven.
Another place to look is EVERYwhere
I can tell you from sad experience, stop driving it until you have everything fixed.
Luck !
#3
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Twin Lake, MI
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just went out and looked -- that fitting is hard to see. You have to get your head right over the back of the alternator and sight down the back left with a flash light. The hose goes to the water pump.
If you need to get at it, the alternator comes off in a few minutes, but you need an 18 mm socket (I think) and a 1/2 inch breaker bar on it to ease the idler pulley tension off from the serpentine belt.
If you need to get at it, the alternator comes off in a few minutes, but you need an 18 mm socket (I think) and a 1/2 inch breaker bar on it to ease the idler pulley tension off from the serpentine belt.
#5
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Replace it with a metal fitting from any parts store. All Series 1 L27'* and L67'* should do this as part of their next tuneup. I keep spares here for meets and local members for this reason.
#6
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, Minnesota
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
And I imagine this is what you're speaking of! When I took the photo I saw the grooves and figured it was something like that.
Slug, Will thanks for the help. Much appreciated as always
Slug, Will thanks for the help. Much appreciated as always
#7
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Twin Lake, MI
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow, you mean I got one right !
Keep at the cooling issues -- that'* been the biggest bugaboo for me on Bonnevilles (but not many others(bugaboos), which is why we likes them )
Keep at the cooling issues -- that'* been the biggest bugaboo for me on Bonnevilles (but not many others(bugaboos), which is why we likes them )
#8
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, Minnesota
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright, I'm having trouble getting this thing out. I've tried with the needle nose, an angled screwdriver, a little bit of pb blaster, I can get it to budge. (see above photo) Any ideas?
Thanks for any help
Thanks for any help
#9
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Twin Lake, MI
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Can't remember how I got mine out.
But will it still take a socket?
Otherwise, since it'* plastic, try an industrial duty heat gun, if you have one. Like a hair-dryer but much hotter. Heat the manifold, not the fitting. Keep the hex part cool with a socket or wet rag or something. That may loosen it at the threads. (Maybe first try heating it a little, then as it cools, hit it with the PB Blaster. This process can help suck the penetrating oil in.)
Worst case, you may have to just melt it out (carefully, no flames, use heat gun), and then clean up the plastic from the threads as best you can.
Maybe the gearguys will have some other ideas?.
But will it still take a socket?
Otherwise, since it'* plastic, try an industrial duty heat gun, if you have one. Like a hair-dryer but much hotter. Heat the manifold, not the fitting. Keep the hex part cool with a socket or wet rag or something. That may loosen it at the threads. (Maybe first try heating it a little, then as it cools, hit it with the PB Blaster. This process can help suck the penetrating oil in.)
Worst case, you may have to just melt it out (carefully, no flames, use heat gun), and then clean up the plastic from the threads as best you can.
Maybe the gearguys will have some other ideas?.
#10
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
I'd try stuffing a rag inside with the tail hanging out and try chipping at it with a small screwdriver or chisel. I recall the dealer saying they had to chip mine out when it broke on my '93.