1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Boost sometimes at -7.5 PSI at idle, engine surging

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Old 08-23-2005, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by willwren
How well does your oil cap seal, and what'* the condition of your PCV and it'* o-ring?
The oil cap seal looks to be ok, but I've never replaced it. The PCV valve and o-ring have been replaced with GM parts, and it didn't seem to make a difference.
Old 08-24-2005, 01:57 PM
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i use to have a rough idle and if i was going 40mph and i let it coast to a stop, the car would stall. it would try to stall at idle but it would never actually stall.

this was on my 01 alero (3400v6)

what i did (per recomendation of the manager at checkers) is take the idle air control motor out, its really easy to spot it connects by the throttle body, im sure someone here can point it out on a pic, and then clean it with brake parts cleaner. i pulled the pin out, sprayed it, pushed it in, sprayed it, and kept doing it untill all the black gunk came out. after that it ran like a charm, and only cost me $3

it was also intermitent, but it idled bad about 40% of the time...worth checking out
Old 08-24-2005, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mikey
i use to have a rough idle and if i was going 40mph and i let it coast to a stop, the car would stall. it would try to stall at idle but it would never actually stall.

this was on my 01 alero (3400v6)

what i did (per recomendation of the manager at checkers) is take the idle air control motor out, its really easy to spot it connects by the throttle body, im sure someone here can point it out on a pic, and then clean it with brake parts cleaner. i pulled the pin out, sprayed it, pushed it in, sprayed it, and kept doing it untill all the black gunk came out. after that it ran like a charm, and only cost me $3

it was also intermitent, but it idled bad about 40% of the time...worth checking out
Thanks for the tip, but I've already cleaned and swapped the IAC valve, and it didn't seem to make a difference. And the symptoms on my car seem to be different than they were on yours.
Old 03-20-2006, 05:17 PM
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I swapped the digital EGR valve with a spare, and the -7.5 PSI during idle problem hasn't happened since then. It'* been about 6 months and counting...
Old 03-20-2006, 07:21 PM
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One of the pintles must have been stuck. A thorough cleaning should turn that into a good spare. Glad you got it!
Old 03-21-2006, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by willwren
One of the pintles must have been stuck. A thorough cleaning should turn that into a good spare. Glad you got it!
Will, how would you recommend cleaning the pintles, and do they need to be lubricated with some form of hi-temp grease?
Old 03-21-2006, 10:59 AM
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Funny. I JUST had my annual 'code 55' from the EGR. Happens once a year like clockwork. I don't normally remove it for that, simply spray a little teflon lube on the shafts and springs.

In case of debris blocking an orifice, remove it from the car and clean it really well with carb cleaner. Let it dry well, then lube with something teflon based and LIGHT. I use Rem-Lube from Remington. Green can. Most good sporting goods stores will have it.

Re-install with a new gasket.
Old 03-21-2006, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by willwren
I don't normally remove it for that, simply spray a little teflon lube on the shafts and springs.
In case of debris blocking an orifice, remove it from the car and clean it really well with carb cleaner. Let it dry well, then lube with something teflon based and LIGHT. I use Rem-Lube from Remington. Green can. Most good sporting goods stores will have it.
Re-install with a new gasket.
Thanks for the tips. I'll look for a can of spray lube like that, but are you aware of any hi-temp grease that could be used and comes in a can, like disc brake caliper grease maybe?
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