1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Bad Knock Sensor

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Old 01-25-2007, 01:37 PM
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ok, I'll give it a shot tomorrow
Old 01-25-2007, 01:45 PM
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While there'* time..

Please share with us how it was found to be bad and what diagnostics are involved to tell if a knock sensor is bad. There are so few failures that I don't remember seeing a good method to determine good/bad.
Old 01-25-2007, 02:47 PM
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The guy just scanned it and told me it was a bad knock sensor. My mom wanted me to take it in to get the tranny looked at and while it was there it was scanned, and he just told me that it was a code 42 and that it was from a bad knock sensor. Should I trust him?
Old 01-25-2007, 03:08 PM
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I'd check my FSM when I get home, but my dad has them. I think my brother had this code back when and I think it was narrowed down to the ICM, which we found was bad. (Car ran bad/didn't start a lot.)
Old 01-25-2007, 04:03 PM
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DTC 42 is the white wire to the icm or the PCM.

DTC 43 is the KS.

(for '93)
Old 01-25-2007, 06:53 PM
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If it is the knock sensor, here are some things to remember when changing it. It is a fragile part; don't drop it. They must make a ground on the threads to function properly, but must also seal against coolant leaking. The new sensor should come with a band of sealant past the first few threads. If not, when you apply thread sealant, keep the first few threads clean so the ground will be made OK. Torque on these is light - something like 12 lb-ft. If you overtorque them, you can damage them.
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