Hey good call, wilren and the others that fingered the cam sensor. The magnet was long gone upon inspection. I got one for $11.00, and following the procedure outlined by the Patchett (sp?) fellow, I JB Welded the new magnet into place. Not only would a new timing job be expensive -- I called two or three shops and they didn't return my calls! I think the location of the motor mount scared them. It'* a big job -- about 4 hours by the labor manual at work. Either way, I am in a bind, and the timing chain is okay -- no sign of being stretched.

It'* out in the drive right now, still apart and waiting for the glue to dry. I won't be able to get it together tomorrow, thanks to Jeane dumping loads of rain on us. Wednesday should be the day of reckoning.

Funny sideline: A guy at work took the magnet (interrupter) and held it to the computer screen in the paint department. Now there is this pinkish-blue spot in the middle of the monitor. For it'* size, that little sucker has a lot of magnetism -- it should provide a signal no problem if the epoxy holds (yeah, I used as much as possible without getting it in spots I didn't want!)

Cool. Keep us posted and let us know if it solves all your problems.

I put the car back together again and started it up. For the first time since I have owned it, there is NO check engine light (I took the tape off and threw it away -- I HATED that piece of tape because I knew the sucker wasn't really fixed...) Upon starting it, it really ran rough for the first minute of so -- had to feather the gas to keep it running. I had run into that before -- whenever you disconnect the battery it runs like crap until the motor "re-learns" it'* working paramenters.

It ran like a million dollars - no hesitation, smooth idle, great power (yeah, the ricer kicks butt!) and with the Traction Control off it ripped away from a stoplight like mad!

Of course, I still haven't performed a cold start with it now that the computer is all booted up. I'll have to get back to you on that. Also, it seemed to have a minor "dead" spot during the first ten minutes or so. I think it has pretty much disappeared. The next few days will give a better picture.

I can't thank you guys enough for the advice and procedures. If I can return the favor, don't hesitate to contact me.

We'll take beer

Used to, don't anymore. Too many problems (binge drinking is the Anti-christ!)

If it wasn't for God I'd be dead... literally.

I'm still a car person though -- who knows why. Maybe it'* because I get to help people on a daily basis. Plus, auto parts is a pretty good living.

Appreciate ya. Thanks again!

You speak my current language! You forgot a prime rib dinner, side of horseradish, STRONG colombian roast and cherry pie!

If that won't do, I can always throw ya some Buffalo wings (Tums optional)

LOL!

Hey -- I still got a cold start issue. Stalls unless you hold it above 1400 RPM for first minute of so.

You know -- I had an old Dodge truck w/ a 318 and a messed up choke. I had to do the same thing. I wound up putting a new carb on. Now, this thing doesn't have anywhere near that system... but it acts the same.

No codes -- not even VATS.

Other than that -- runs FANTASTIC once warmed up.

I had that exact same problem (cold-start issue) with my Turbo Coupe, and I was just told it had something to do with the temp sensor on the intake. I don't know how similar these cars are to the Turbo Coupes in that aspect, but thought I'd throw it out there as an idea.

Rick

I'd be looking at the MAF sensor and the IAC.

I was thinking that too.

How do you test those? Is there a tech item with a listing of resistive values that I can use to troubleshoot? I got a good meter.

I also have an intermittant miss, too, along with a power-robbing bog in midrange.

Related?