Originally Posted by blinkyvx
which brand of R12 on Ebay should i buy? do they still sell the hose nescesary to transfer the R12 freeon from bottle to my car
R12 is no longer manufactured. What you will find is recovered R12 (taken out of exisiting systems and cleaned), or someones old stock of R12. 60/70 per pound is about right.
Converting: It does work, but you'll need some tools and chemicals. 1 gauge set for R134a ($90), one vac pump ($50 for a venturi type), conversion fittings ($5), all the O-rings ($10 for an assortment). Accumulator/Dryer ($50), an orifice tube ($5), can tap ($5), system flush ($12), and PAG150 oil or Ester oil.
When I did mine, I completely dissassembled the entire AC system. Removed everything from the car except for the evap core (which I just filled with the flush chemical and blew out with compressed air on the car). The rest of the parts (condensor, muffler, hoses) got flushed and blown clean. Old orifice tube and Accumulator are throw away items. (Don't reuse the old accumulator, it'* got a bag of dessicant inside it to remove water vapor from the system, it'* also full of the mineral oil and will contaminate the new system. Just chuck it in the trash and use a new one.
Note: when using the conversion fittings: REMOVE the old schrader valves from the original High and Low side ports. Yeah, the conversion fittings are supposed to operate them using a pin off back of the new schrader valve, but this doesn't always work right. By removing the old one before installing the fitting, your valves will always work right.
Reassembled the system with new O-rings and PAG150 oil, hooked up the gauges, and pull 30inches of vac on the entire system for 30 minutes. Then leave it that way for an hour to make sure you don't have a leak. If all goes well (no loss of vac), then change the system with refridgerant. Static pressure (compressor off) is 100 to 120 psi. Running pressure varies with temp and condition of the compressor. Mine runs approx 200 psi on the high side, 22psi on the low side, before cycling off and letting the system equalize through the orifice tube. Compressor kicks back on aroud 45 psi low side.
Another alternative to R134a is ES12a (EnviroSafe) which is what my 90 Bonnie has in it now. Costs about $35 for a half case (enough to do the car twice)
If you don't want to flush the system, then use Ester oil instead of PAG. If you use ES12a, you can continue to use mineral oil. Personally, I'd flush the system clean while it is down just to be on the safe side. What you don't want is to mix PAG with mineral oil..result is a goo that looks like cottage cheese and clogs up the system.