On summit they show some Earls coolers at first look they look like they have the AN fitting made in them.
But in the notes it says -10AN O ring fitting size and fittings not in included.
You could go from -12AN to -10 O ring fitting to plum it.
Earl'* Performance Temp-A-Cure Fluid Coolers 82500ERL - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Now I know your thinking don't down size it for flow but I drought it really would make much difference.
It actual might give the oil a chance to cool more to fast a flow can not give it enough time to cool off.
The old saying no thermostat can make water flow to fast and not have time to cool off in the radiator.
On alibaba they show a lot of coolers to I found
Heavy Duty Truck Oil Cooler, Heavy Duty Truck Oil Cooler Suppliers and Manufacturers at Alibaba.com

Awesome stuff mate! Can't wait for the final product! Just wondering though...are you going to fit this one with a supercharged engine!
What do you think of this one?
GOOD IDEA? 1984 PONTIAC FIERO With SUPERCHARGED REAR V8 Engine! Completely STREET-LEGAL! Can You Believe It?! - Muscle Cars Zone!

Thanks Peter. If you go back to the last page you can see it is set up with twin turbochargers and twin intercoolers. I thought about a super charger and I think it would really look cool with one. But I'm a died in the wool turbocharger guy. I've had several turbo cars through the years and really like them. I also have no problem fabricating the tubing. Big superchargers are a large investment up front where you can build and buy turbo systems as you go. Each system has its advantages and disadvantages.
I've seen the Fiero and love it.

Hello guys, I see it'* been a long, long time since I updated the thread. I spent the nicer days of fall, winter, and spring getting the car all wired and the Megasquirt all wired and in place. I got a huge amount of stuff completed. put in the coil on plug coils etc, all the sensors in and wired, completed the full wiring loom for the EFI and the top of the motor all in place and ready to fire.
My son and I did a walk through of all the readouts and wiring for continuity and proper sequencing (coils and injectors) to the firing order with special care for my changed firing order cam (swapped the no7 for the no4 in the firing order). I had built the one off front drive distributor driving off of the cam but with the EFI I needed a cam sync. I adapted a GM cam sync that looks just like a distributor at the back of the sbc vortects. I made it to replace the special front drive distributor. I did trial runs of the cooling system ad found the special high power, high flow, e-bay water pump couldn't pump enough water to we t my pants so I had to go to a great Meziere remote pump. After some easy adapting, it really moved the water. All the way through the system form the rear radiator through the motor and back to the radiator again. I hav eyet to find out if the overall system will keep up with the demands of the motor but so far the water is moving well. I completed the fuel system with the new Magnafuel 750 EFI pump and it seems to be handling the fuel as needed. Again, to be tested.
I say as yet to.... because after getting everything oiled, filtered, pumped fueled and pumped, we tried to start it and nothing. After going through everything again we found that although the signal form the cam sync was getting to the Megasquirt ecm, it was not showing on the Megasquirt readout page. It showed the readout for the crank sensor but not the cam sync. By this time the heat had come back this late spring and early summer and we put off everything until the heat goes away again. I just felt if we did get it running and the cooling system did not provide enough cooling it would be down again. Any who, it'* now waiting for fall. Then we'll attack it again.
This is the completed cam sync sensor (looks like a distributor cap) and the crank trigger wheel and sensor bracket/sensor.

Here you can see the passenger side coils for the coil on plug system. The water return with the radiator cap and over flow catch can is there also.

This is a shot of the completed engine compartment so far depending on future needs.

This is my electronic boost controller mounted just under the dash and right above the controller is the two oxygen sensor readouts for both backs of the motor. I have one for each side so I can watch the A/F ratios from both banks.

This STILL isn't running yet? lol

Your Happy Birthday notice was what reminded that I had been away from here so long, so thank you for the well wishes.
I also wanted to add that the Pontiac 4 cylinder project is moving right along. The crank turned out to be viable so it'* at Mile High Crankshaft now having been magnafluxed and cleaned. I'll be turning the rod journals down to the big block chevy 2.20 size (down form the Pontiac 2.25) to open up availability/larger choice in rods. I have the rods already. Big block rod and pin size in a 6.80 length. The block was cleaned and is getting 4 bolt splayed caps installed, then we will do the align bore/honing to get mains sized for the .010 main bearings. once the main bearings are in the machined block, we can get the exact main bearing dimensions they can then cut the crank mains to the perfect size. We need to do the same with the rod big ends so they can size the rod journals to the perfect size also. Soon I'll have to make up my mind and purchase the cylinder head I'll be using so we can order the correct pistons and finish boring and honing the block to size. I hope to have this all done when the temps allow working in the garage again. I have a good LT1 T-56 I need to adapt to the block plus I have to adapt a starter (much like I did with the 406 in the Gasser).
My son had a co-worker that was looking for someone to buy her 2006 Mazda RX8. She couldn't get much for it from a dealer so I picked it up at a very reasonable price, and the 4 cylinder will eventually fall into it. So things are moving along, just very slowly. Thanks for checking in on my thread guys.

Yup Mike, no runny no noisy, LOL. But very close, if we can figure out the cam sync. The cam sync is needed to run port fuel injection but to run it in batch form, you don't need the cam sync, just the crank trigger and that is working. So if we still have problems this fall when we start to work on it again, we may try starting it up in batch and at least I can run it and break it all in. It won't be optimum but then we can figure out the can sync later.

Hello everyone and my apologies for not updating in so long. I've been very disappointed in the Megasquirt unit that we were trying to use. It just would not read the cam sync in the unit (ecm). This winter I bit the bullet and bought a complete new Megasquirt EVO Pro and wiring harness. The new harness and the old harness is almost entirely the same as far as the wire colors per function (example: all injector wires were the same color and secondary stripe color as the previous harness) which allowed me to cut the new harness under the dash and splice it into the old harness going throughout the car. It saved having to completely pullout all of the wiring I did and start over again. A huge saving for time and my sanity, lol.
With that all done we did a run through to make sure all the wire splicing was working and didn't start the car on fire and only had one wire pull out of a weathertite connector because of pulling the wiring harness as far as I could into the cabin to work on the splicing under the dash.
Our new problem is the new harness and instructions show a different way of connecting up the wiring harness for the crank and cam sensors than the old unit instructed. Although the old cam sensor would not work the crank did with the old diagram. This new diagram shows a different set up and we need make sure it works so we are researching to understand it. The can sync I used is a Vortec small block chevy unit that looks just like the old distributors and even sets in the old distributor location. But it just spins a blocking trigger inside which goes through a hall affect sensor to trigger the cam position. I modified the body to bolt into my front drive system. The problem is finding a good reference to tell me exactly which wire on the sync unit is which.
Which life and work getting in the way I'm waiting fo rmy son to free up some time so we can get these sensors figured out, wire them up and go from there. But I'm still plugging along.

Update on the Pontiac Tempest 4 cylinder project. It'* a dead project for now. I stopped it because so many things were starting run costs up beyond my rectifying the costs. I had that set of splayed four bolt caps to put in but so many little factors were coming up that it made it too costly to continue. So the block and crank are resting nicely in my shed waitnig for another day when I need a money pit project, lol.
But, good news is, I'm building a short stroke LS1 right now. I got a super deal on a 2006 Mazda RX8 from a lady that works with my son. It has the rotory engine and 6 speed trans and it is fun as all heck to run around in. 9,000 RPM redline WHAAAAAAATTTT!!! LOL. Coming from 5500-6000 rpm big old Pontiacs to this thing, I still have to force myself to let this thing wing up to the 8500 rpm shift points.
Anyway. Although this is in excellent condition, the rotories are not know for lasting very long. Hence their low resale value. So, as soon as I get the engine built and can figure out how to install it in the RX8 and still comply with emmissions testing. It'* going in.
The RX8 manuals use (I believe) a 4:44 rear gear allowing for the rotory engine to spin up so high. The LS1 (5.7 3.662 stroke crank) I'm building is trading the 3.662 crank for the 4.8 3.275 stroke crank. Allowing for a safer high rpm engine. I'm staying N/A so I'll probably end up in the 500 RWHP range which will still be crazy strong on this car. It should end up around 3000 lbs ready to go.
Anyway, that'* what this crazy old man has been up to.