Nitrous question
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Posts like a Turbo
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

Just wondering what kind of supporting mods are needed to have nitrous?
Specifically, this one of course: http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_p...ts1.php?id=462
And why choose a dry shot over wet shot or vice versa?
Specifically, this one of course: http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_p...ts1.php?id=462
And why choose a dry shot over wet shot or vice versa?
To be honest, I've never seen this system in action before. Reading through the liturature, Zex really doesn't spell out how it is doing the fuel, but I'm thinking they are playing with injector pulse widths between the PCM and the injectors. (This is just speculation on my part based on looking at the kit components.)
As far as supporting modifications... None if you choose. The kit'* output levels are pretty mild. If it works as advertised (automatic A/F ratios, delayed injection until Wide Open Throttle, monitoring bottle pressures) then it should be quiet harmless to the motor.
I have a personal schism regarding dry nitrous systems. I just don't trust them on the fuel delivery side. I like the ability to plug a fuel jet in to match up with the nitrous jet to get the right ratio of fuel and oxidizer. People use dry systems successfully, so it is probably all in my mind, but I'm old school and like the wet manifold systems.
Before you go to the bottle, you should make sure your transmission and driveline parts are in good shape, add an aux cooler to the transmission if you haven't done so already. (The transmission is going to feel the hit the hardest.) Also, you will run high octane pump gas and colder spark plugs. This means the plugs will be more apt to foul on normal driving, but keep an eye on them and clean them regularly.
What destroys engines running nitrous oxide is detonation (too much ignition advance, too lean a mixture, too hot a spark plug) and ham-handed application of the bottle (hitting the bottle in first gear off-idle) That adds an extra cylinder or two worth of displacement to the motor at a time when the parts are already under the heaviest loads. Avoid these hazzards with any system you choose and your motor can live a long, healthy life on the bottle.
As far as supporting modifications... None if you choose. The kit'* output levels are pretty mild. If it works as advertised (automatic A/F ratios, delayed injection until Wide Open Throttle, monitoring bottle pressures) then it should be quiet harmless to the motor.
I have a personal schism regarding dry nitrous systems. I just don't trust them on the fuel delivery side. I like the ability to plug a fuel jet in to match up with the nitrous jet to get the right ratio of fuel and oxidizer. People use dry systems successfully, so it is probably all in my mind, but I'm old school and like the wet manifold systems.
Before you go to the bottle, you should make sure your transmission and driveline parts are in good shape, add an aux cooler to the transmission if you haven't done so already. (The transmission is going to feel the hit the hardest.) Also, you will run high octane pump gas and colder spark plugs. This means the plugs will be more apt to foul on normal driving, but keep an eye on them and clean them regularly.
What destroys engines running nitrous oxide is detonation (too much ignition advance, too lean a mixture, too hot a spark plug) and ham-handed application of the bottle (hitting the bottle in first gear off-idle) That adds an extra cylinder or two worth of displacement to the motor at a time when the parts are already under the heaviest loads. Avoid these hazzards with any system you choose and your motor can live a long, healthy life on the bottle.
I had a Zex dry kit that injected at the intake. Works if you use it and install it correctly.
Zex includes a box that taps into your TPS to know when to inject, plus you arm it with a toggle switch.
I could go on and on, but really I'd say go with a professional wet system that taps right into your manifold if you are serious.
Zex includes a box that taps into your TPS to know when to inject, plus you arm it with a toggle switch.
I could go on and on, but really I'd say go with a professional wet system that taps right into your manifold if you are serious.
Originally Posted by Shadowfax217
Wow thanks for the info that really helps!
What about safety issues, like what if someone re-ends me with a high pressure bottle in the trunk?
What about safety issues, like what if someone re-ends me with a high pressure bottle in the trunk?
The actual explosive you carry around is the 14 gallons of gasoline in the tank under the trunk. In a collision, it usually fairs pretty well (except for a few Ford Pintos out there
The biggest risk you face personally from handling Nitrous Oxide is Frost Bite. Wear gloves when working with the feed lines as they get cold if you have a leak in the fittings. Also wear safety glasses when working around the lines (much the same kind of warnings you would hear if you were working on the pressurized Air Conditioning lines.)
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 409
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From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

Originally Posted by Allmachtige
I could go on and on, but really I'd say go with a professional wet system that taps right into your manifold if you are serious.
Thanks for the help guys.
Originally Posted by Shadowfax217
Do you have any suggestions or links of some? Or are you still talking about a Zex one?
The actual plumbing is steel tubing with double flares. If you find any hydraulic shops in your area, they can hook you up with the tools to flare and bend tubing, along with the AN style fittings that will let you rig up the solenoids to the nozzles. A single nozzle arrangement is the simplest setup.
Really, Nitrous Oxide injection is easy to rig, even for someone new to the stuff. A simple "Universal" fogger kit from NOS (or any other supplier) will give you the basic components (Bottle, feed line, Solenoids, switches, nozzle, jets, and wiring). A couple of hours work and you'll have a wet manifold system installed.
Originally Posted by Shadowfax217
Originally Posted by Allmachtige
I could go on and on, but really I'd say go with a professional wet system that taps right into your manifold if you are serious.
Thanks for the help guys.
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