I was playing around under the hood today. My brother happened to have an aluminum intake pipe that fit perfectly after a couple cuts of both ends. The angle is nice and it does not rest on the ELC compressor

Anyway, I didn't have a filter for it yet so I kept the stock intake on, but removed the MAF screen to clean inside the TB. I kept it out for ***** and giggles, and test drove it. Not to my surprise, the car idled like crap. I went to dinner. When starting the car up again, I immediately noticed the Traction Control light was on. It obviously shouldn't be on when starting up. I pressed the TC button a few times and is still showed TC was off. A couple minutes later it was working again, but a few more minutes passed and I noticed my SES light was on (MAF screen still out at this point).

I stopped, put the screen back in, and still have an SES light. The only explanation I can find that it'* on is because I took the screen out. It'* back in though.

Any ideas? I'm going out again and I'll see what happens.

Thanks.

*I really need a scantool

You do need a scantool. I doubt it'* the MAF screen causing it.

I had to run with a screen on my ported 93 TB, but only because I was out of range of my MAF. No car has ever thrown an SES due to a removed screen that I've heard of.

Get the codes scanned my 92 runs with out the maf screen fine

I think it'* maybe one of the sensor is shot from when you cleaned the TB or vacuum leak?? My MAF screen is off mine and Tamara'* car. Mine was fine.. Tamara'* idled rough for bout a week then adjusted itself.

Maybe NAPA will scan it for you for free?

TC is completely unrelated to the pulling of the MAF.

Didn't you think you had a wheel bearing going bad on you? The speed sensor is built into the bearing and has been known to get broken as the bearing goes bad.

As for the code...yup.. you need a scanner.

I was also thinking the SES light was not due to removing the MAF. I do know that with a stock intake I was not expecting it to idle well. But when I got the SES light only after I pulled the screen I figured it had to be something related to it in some way.

The ONLY thing it could be is a vacuum leak. Jim got SES lights becasue it was losing vaccuum. He had vacuum lines replaced, but with a slight wiggle in the boost gauge when idling, it has been thought that there still could be a vacuum leak.

I did notice when the SES light was on, that the boost gauge was wiggling at idle when the car was warmed up, and when the car is warm I have never noticed it to wiggle like that. It'* usually only wiggling when cold. I immediately though vacuum leak. I noticed in the past few days I never got the boost gauge as high at WOT as I used to.

I hope I can figure it out and fix the leak wherever it may be. But last night on my way home the SES light was NOT on. The car drove extremely well, high end was very responsive and smooth comared to before. Boost gauge was nice and high at WOT. This was most likely due to the Complete Fuel System Cleaner I put in yesterday afternoon. My gas mileage is much better already as well. So now I just need to figure why I got the light and I'll be set.

Scantool won't come for a while due to finances. Any recommendations for a brand?

P.*. Boosty, Yeah, the TC thing I knew wasn't related at all, it was just a coincidence that two thing were acting screwy at the same time. The TC I am noticing is still OFF when I start up. It goes back on within 2 minutes.

Pete, try to tighten the EGR stovepipe connection where it enters the TB. Or better yet, disconnect it, clean the surfaces, and reconnect it. There is no gasket at this location, and a cold vac leak is pointing in this direction. As the metal of the SC and EGR heat up, they expand, providing a better seal.

I custom fabbed a gasket for mine, mostly due to the need because of the differences between the Gen2 and Gen3, but you may benefit as well.

If I have a vac leak and I keep a steady cruising speed on the highway (2500 rpms or less) should I worry about the effects on my engine while running lean? What exactly are these effects? Would low rpms keep me safe?

If I have a vac leak, which I probably still do, it is not nearly as bad as it used to be when Jim had it.

I'll take a look at the EGR connection to the TB (once i get under the hood I'll know where to look) and clean it up. Is it the metal pipe that has the cloth heat shield on it?

The traction control issue happened on my bonne too. To my understanding, VIA Alldata at school, the condition of the light to engage is a problem with the engine dropping below a certain voltage. I used to have something printed that said everything exactly, but it was on the TSB section of it

Sorry I couldn't be of more help, but once I cleaned my MAF, and it stopped idling rough, then it stopped misfiring, which made the volt gauge go back to 14-15 where it usually sits while running, and the light no longer comes back.

It'* tied to the issue of the rough idling / low voltage due to that

Good luck with it! (I have a 95 but i don't know if it'* the same year, also, i don't have the blower)

Bill, thanks for the advice to check out the connection of the EGR pipe to the TB. I was going to tighten it, but I figured why not take it off. Upon taking it off, look what I found:






A friggin hole half way through the pipe at the BASE of the pipe. I hooked it back up again, and by placing my finger over that area I could clearly feel air coming out, and I could hear the hissing from the air as well. It even looks like the pipe was hit in that area, as it is not round, but dented in down at the bottom. I'm surprised I didn't notice this before.

I'm not sure if this could have caused the SES light. I'm not positive, but I bet this hole has been here for a while. I'll be able to scan when Morty is in town.