How do I do this and do I have to bleed the front and back brakes?

if there'* any chance of air in the lines for any reason, like a master cylinder change, you should bleed all the brakes, starting with the wheel the furthest away.

I was just going to change my pads in the front.

If you dont disconnect your brake line from the caliper you shouldnt need to bleed them. I know on the 00+ models you can replace the brake pad without removing the caliper and the brake line.

No need to bleed after a pad change.

But if you DO want to bleed (a good idea every couple years), do as suggested, and start from the farthest wheel from the master cylinder, and work your way to it.

1. Right rear
2. Left rear
3. Right front
4. Left front.

Repeat.

one more question, and this is embarrasing so don't laugh.....................


















how do I bleed them?

The easiest way is to put the whole car up on blocks. Or ramps on the front, and block the rear. Make it even easier by removing all 4 wheels, but this isn't totally necessary.

Get a small jar (peanut butter jar works good...make sure it'* clean, as brake fluid spoils the taste of PB). Fill the jar with about 2-3" of brake fluid. DOT3 or DOT4 only. Now get a tube that will fit over the bleed valves on each wheel cylinder. You'll see them. They look like zerk grease fittings. Break each one loose and lightly tighten to begin with.

Now take a piece of 1/4" tubing and push it onto the RR fitting. Put the other end of the tube in the PB jar, with the end BELOW the surface of the fluid. This prevents being able to draw air back into the brake cylinder if your helper screws up and lets up on the pedal too soon.

When you're ready with the wrench on the valve, tell the helper to press the brake pedal and hold. When he does, open the valve. Old fluid (and any air) will be purged out. While the helper holds the pedal to the firewall, tighten the valve.

Repeat this on the other 3 in the right sequence, then repeat all 4 again. After each 2 wheels, check the master cylinder reservior, and keep it topped off. It takes about 4 iterations (maybe 5) to completely purge the brake system if this is your intent.

If you removed the wheels, and don't want warped rotors this summer, make sure you use a torque wrench to put them back on.

An easy way to do it is to buy speed bleeders and replace the valves with them. I have speed bleeders on all four wheels, that way you can do it by yourself. The valve is spring loaded and automatically shuts off when you release pressure.

Those things are cool. Also, my procedure usually has the helper press twice before moving on. So push, open, close, let off, repeat. Then move on.