2008 Vue Intermittent no start
#1
2008 Vue Intermittent no start
Hello, I am looking for some assistance for a 2008 Saturn Vue. It has about 115k miles and 2.4l engine. I have replaced the battery and checked fuel pressure at the rail which is about 55psi. I do not see any security lights.
So what happens is on occasion the car just cranks and will not start. Once it does start it is fine with no issues. If I turn it off it'll take a couple hours before I can have a chance of getting it to start again, except that I have recently found that I can get it to start if I release pressure at the Schroeder valve on the fuel rail with a screw driver.
Leading up to this the car took a while to start which seemed like the check valve for the fuel line was not working correctly. I could get around this by turning the key to on and waiting a few seconds to start it. After the intermittent problem started I tried putting an inline check valve on the supply line which solved the gas running back into the tank, but not the starting.
Please give me some ideas where to go next with this, I already paid a dealer to take a look at it and they were as stumped as I am, but made me pay anyway. Thanks in advance.
So what happens is on occasion the car just cranks and will not start. Once it does start it is fine with no issues. If I turn it off it'll take a couple hours before I can have a chance of getting it to start again, except that I have recently found that I can get it to start if I release pressure at the Schroeder valve on the fuel rail with a screw driver.
Leading up to this the car took a while to start which seemed like the check valve for the fuel line was not working correctly. I could get around this by turning the key to on and waiting a few seconds to start it. After the intermittent problem started I tried putting an inline check valve on the supply line which solved the gas running back into the tank, but not the starting.
Please give me some ideas where to go next with this, I already paid a dealer to take a look at it and they were as stumped as I am, but made me pay anyway. Thanks in advance.
#3
I'm not sure, I had not thought to check for spark since it either runs or doesn't. What is the best way to check for this in a coil on plug system, probably on the go since it very seldom seems to do it while home?
#5
Senior Member
Well if it won't start, and you have spark, then it is a fuel delivery problem.....
Either injectors are not firing or, fuel pump problem.....
Not sure if this engine has a schraeder valve on the rail to attach a fuel pressure gage.....
One thing you can do to verify it is a fuel problem, is spray carb cleaner into the intake while cranking(when it won't start).....if it runs as long as you spray, it'* fuel delivery.....
Either injectors are not firing or, fuel pump problem.....
Not sure if this engine has a schraeder valve on the rail to attach a fuel pressure gage.....
One thing you can do to verify it is a fuel problem, is spray carb cleaner into the intake while cranking(when it won't start).....if it runs as long as you spray, it'* fuel delivery.....
#6
I am going to order a fuel pump and replace that. That way I can take the mechanical check valve out of the line and have it set up like it is supposed to be. I will report back whether or not this solves the problem.
#7
So I replaced the fuel pump and it work working great! But now I have another problem, the fuel gauge doesn't work and it is throwing a code for the fuel level sensor being out of range. What did I miss on this? I made sure all of the electrical connections are tight. What there something I was supposed to move from the old pump to the new one?
#8
Senior Member
All fuel sending units are different, if not OEM, which should be just plug and play......
Some units don't come with a level sensor, and you have to transfer the old one to the new one......
There is usually a 4 wire connector.....2 for the fuel pump, and 2 for the level sensor.......
I usually take an ohm meter and attach it to the correct connectors on top of the module and move the level sensor, looking for a corresponding change in resistance, I think it is 40 ohms at empty, to 240 ohms at full....
Here is a good video...
If you have some old resistors at home, you can make a test......if you disconnect the harness to the fuel module and attach a 140 ohm resistor to the corresponding connectors in the harness, then turn the key on, the gage should read one half......this tells you the harness back to the gage is ok, and the problem is in the module...
Some units don't come with a level sensor, and you have to transfer the old one to the new one......
There is usually a 4 wire connector.....2 for the fuel pump, and 2 for the level sensor.......
I usually take an ohm meter and attach it to the correct connectors on top of the module and move the level sensor, looking for a corresponding change in resistance, I think it is 40 ohms at empty, to 240 ohms at full....
Here is a good video...
If you have some old resistors at home, you can make a test......if you disconnect the harness to the fuel module and attach a 140 ohm resistor to the corresponding connectors in the harness, then turn the key on, the gage should read one half......this tells you the harness back to the gage is ok, and the problem is in the module...
#9
So this is the fuel pump I got More Information for ACDELCO M100097
I fairly certain that the wiring is good as it worked fine before the fuel pump change. I do remember there being a float on the other unit on the opposite side of the tank, but I did not change that part, I only ran the pickup from the new pump over to the other side.
I fairly certain that the wiring is good as it worked fine before the fuel pump change. I do remember there being a float on the other unit on the opposite side of the tank, but I did not change that part, I only ran the pickup from the new pump over to the other side.