Let me begin my saying I installed a remote starter over a year and a half ago.

Okay, so recently, as in twice in the past week, I've gone to start my 94 Bonneville and turned the key, no crank. Battery is fine, lights were on and all accessories worked. Read just over 12 V.

It has done this a couple of times since the remote starter install, BUT the difference is the security light would go on, meaning VATS reading wrong. Everytime it did before, I could wait the 5 min until the security light went off and it would start right up. This time there is no security light, which makes me think it may be something else. Waiting 5-10 minutes between attempts this time did not fix the problem. Both times this week, I went back the next morning, got my car, and started right up.

My guess is the change in temperatures recently have played with my VATS bypass connections some. I'm going to go back in and solder them, but I wanted to see if anyone else had any suggestions to take a look at in the meantime.

Thanks,

Kris

Also, it should be added that neither the key nor the remote starter would start the car, ruling out ignition issues I believe.

you should check the voltage at the starter while cranking because a bad or corroded wire to the starter can cause intermittent issues like that. also batteries going bad and bad grounds still can give 12v readings with the radio on and other light loads, you need to check the voltage while cranking for this type of problem

Do you mean check the voltage while the car is cranking as normal or when I'm getting the no crank symptom? Wouldn't a bad cable / ground give occasional weak cranking instead of all or nothing? Battery was replaced in July 09, but the cable is the original and I'm sure has some wear. I'll check the grounds.

check the voltage at the starter when it wont start, if it has good voltage on the big wire and the little wire, if you have those it should crank. if you dont get 12v on the little wire something in the car is not allowing the crank signal

I'll add it to the list of things to do on the old lady. Thanks!

let us know if you get it figured out

Just happened again, fortunately (?) I was within walking distance, but I did play around for a bit before I gave in.

I determined that the VATS connections were all good. I also disconnected the remote starter just to ensure it wasn't malfunctioning and causing any problems. I also played with the fuse block (not sure if that'* the correct term) in the top left near the drivers kick panel which had previously given me some problems. The bolt was a little loose, so I hand tightened it but it had no effect. I also held it together while I turned the key to ensure this wasn't the problem. I checked all of the grounds that were accessible without getting under the car and they appeared tight and clean enough. I took the fuel pressure with the key turned to ON and it read around 35 psi. What is the correct fuel pressure?

This has to be something with the temperature changing at night. The car works all day and then at the night when its cooler it stopped working. I drove it at all day and the last time it started was 9:00 pm. At 10:30 pm when it was significantly cooler, no crank. This is the same thing that happened the last two times as well. I can almost guarantee it will start come tomorrow morning. Unfortunately, this battle was just me and a few tools, so I couldn't have anyone turn the key while I checked the starter voltages.

So not VATS, I'm assuming not ignition since remote starter doesn't work as well. I'll try and replicate the problem in the next few nights and check the starter voltages. It'* a pain in the *** it'* only doing it late at night as far as troubleshooting. Other suggestions for next time I'm stranded?

Also, starter was replaced in fall 09, so it'* improbable that the starter is the problem

sounds like the starter relay i would probably change it anyway there not expensive. this diagram will give you some things to check if you can check voltages