Last night, after a drive, I shut off the engine. As I went to crank it to start, it would not start and I glanced at the tach. It was indeed reading about 200 to 400rpm. So, I don't think the issue I am having is due to a faulty CPS sensor.

Next time it does it, gently hold the accelerator open while cranking. I mean a "TAD" open. If the engine begins to start sluggishly, gently vary the opening of the throttle while it attempts to start.

If it seems to be hunting for a stable idle, I suggest replacing the IAC valve on the throttle body. (Idle Air Control)

Fuel pressure is 45 PSI.

I have not yet had a scan tool put on the engine. Once this is done, if any issues with the fuel injectors, there will be a code show up, p1200 is what I was told.

Today, I am checking the ICM. I saw a post that the ICM may not be making full contact at all times.

If I would have checked for spark, I would have found the problem why the GTP would not start. The ICM module and ground block that is mounts to was severely corroded and covered in oil grease and dirt. I had some time on my hands, so I removed the plugs, coils and ICM and that was when I saw that crud. I used 80 grit sandpaper by hand to sand through the tough buildup, then I moved to 240 grit and then 1000 grit. When I was done, there was no doubt that there would be a clean transfer of electrical power through the module and block.
When I hooked up the battery again, then just slightly turned the key to start, it started right away. After weeks and weeks of it sitting around due to not starting, and all it was was corrosion. I have learned a good lesson here. Hope others learn from it too. I did not replace the ICM, but at this point, I am not.
And I am going to continue to track down the cause of the boost that shows up on the gauge. I don't think the corroded ICM and block is the cause for that.
I plan on fueling the car up, and going for a long drive later on to see how it runs.

Great! Thanks for letting us know how it went!