Hello all, hoping for some insight here. After some searching I and seeing a few posts with similar problems, but they kind of just die off with no more responses... lol I am wondering if i can get some insight.
I have had my 2003 aztek all wheel drive for 3 or 4 years. Got it with blown head gaskets, its been a great car.
Originally had the faulty fuel gauge issue where you could never tell how much gas you had (it originally said full, or empty and mileage gauge light is burned out so its super hard to read) and the only way i knew I was low was the gas light. That'* fixed now with a new fuel pump at least (yay)
For a little while it would randomly flash security while driving and shut my gauges, radio, everything except the actual motor down then a few minutes later it would all come back up all the while never actually shutting the engine down.
The reason i replaced the fuel pump finally, was the car was starting to act up. You would be cruising along and after about 10 to 20 minutes, it would start acting like it was running out of gas, and usually die, then start back up a minute later. So i figured maybe the pump was finally going, Well, the pump fixed my gauge but not the random misfiring/dying. I kind of just dealt with it. BTW spark plugs and wires are all in good shape.

Anywho, So the other day i went to the store in town, and when i went to leave i had a no start (as in wont even crank just a click from the relays)
I towed the car home, pulled the starter (probably the easiest starter i have ever removed) and took it down for testing. It tested good multiple times.
The battery is fully charged, its only about 2 years old and good

I think i had some U1000 codes that I had saved in my notes on my phone, but unfortunately they didn't save for some reason (i got a new phone and they probably didn't transfer, thanks Samsung) and since removing the battery they are now gone
I had a code for the speed sensor, replaced the sensor and that code went away on its own.
There were NO misfire codes


I pulled the BCM and sent it off for diagnoses. It came back to me good (took a week sent it to a place in Florida) I did this because it was cheaper than going to the dealer.
AWD disable light is on and stays on, but i am in need of replacing front hub assemblies (they are definitely growling like the bearings are going out and theres a code for the front wheel speed sensors)
I replaced the ignition switch under the tumbler, no change
I checked all fuses and relays, even replaced start/ignition relays. no change
i checked the connector on the shifter to see if any broken wires, all looks good and no loose wires or anything

So what ive done now is ordered a PCM, the one inside the air box, it will be arriving today. It has been programmed per my vehicles VIN What are your thoughts? Does anyone think its my PCM? it was also getting pretty bad fuel mileage

I think it'* time to diagnose. Need to get out a meter and figure out if electricity gets to where it needs to go when you turn the key. I'd start with checking the start power to the solenoid when the ignition switch is turned to [Start].

The only two relays that seem to be getting power when I turn the key to start is relay 27 accessory relay, and relay 33 retained accessory power relay.
I'm gonna have to dig out my multimeter

Definitely. Maybe a test light as well.

I'm just at a loss of what else is left lol. BCM diagnosed as good. Switch is good. Relays are good, same with fuses

pcm is definitely good now, and successfully programmed (key in start for 10 minutes until security light stops flashing, repeated 3 times) and the securtiy light does not come on anymore.
Fuel pump is priming.
I had ucodes but now they're gone but I thought those pointed to BCM or PCM
and this thing just one day decided it wasn't going to start anymore after a 5 minute trip.

So what does it mean and where should I go next if I get no voltage on v1 and v3? Not sure anyones going to reply to that thread from 2013..

I also get 12v at all ignition relays and fuses to the fuse box in the car, the fuse box thats connected to the BCM
12v is also present on the passkey fuse.

Ummm . . .

yes? Do you have something to add?

Strange, it didnt show the quote earlier. My bad.

so, no power is gdtting to the solenoid. I can jump the hot end of the wire to the solenoid with a screwdriver and get the starter to manually engage, but the car won't fire.
key was in start run position.

All fuses, relays, and ignition switch test good.