v8
#3
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Sure. Pick one. Any V8 you like. But only if you have a steep budget.
Along with custom motor mounts, unibody work to create the driveline tunnel, custom trans mounts, custom axle mounts (better beef up that rear frame for the axle) brake swap for the rear, custom PCM and alot of wiring.
(can you PLEASE put your year and trim level in your signature by editing your profile?)
It'* been done once by a mem ber here at great cost, and we don't even know if it was finished or not.
Along with custom motor mounts, unibody work to create the driveline tunnel, custom trans mounts, custom axle mounts (better beef up that rear frame for the axle) brake swap for the rear, custom PCM and alot of wiring.
(can you PLEASE put your year and trim level in your signature by editing your profile?)
It'* been done once by a mem ber here at great cost, and we don't even know if it was finished or not.
#4
Vdog, IMO it'* not even worth it.
For HALF the money you could spend doing a V8 conversion, you could convert and drop in a heavily built and modded S2 L67, along with a beefed up tranny, and easily be in the 11s with less hassle. Of course, this is of you have WELL over $3,000-4,000 to spend. Until then, stick with what you have.
For HALF the money you could spend doing a V8 conversion, you could convert and drop in a heavily built and modded S2 L67, along with a beefed up tranny, and easily be in the 11s with less hassle. Of course, this is of you have WELL over $3,000-4,000 to spend. Until then, stick with what you have.
#6
Ignorant User
Posts like a 4 Banger
Originally Posted by willwren
Sure. Pick one. Any V8 you like. But only if you have a steep budget.
Along with custom motor mounts, unibody work to create the driveline tunnel, custom trans mounts, custom axle mounts (better beef up that rear frame for the axle) brake swap for the rear, custom PCM and alot of wiring.
(can you PLEASE put your year and trim level in your signature by editing your profile?)
It'* been done once by a mem ber here at great cost, and we don't even know if it was finished or not.
Along with custom motor mounts, unibody work to create the driveline tunnel, custom trans mounts, custom axle mounts (better beef up that rear frame for the axle) brake swap for the rear, custom PCM and alot of wiring.
(can you PLEASE put your year and trim level in your signature by editing your profile?)
It'* been done once by a mem ber here at great cost, and we don't even know if it was finished or not.
There are several V8'* he could drop in from the Caddys. Stay away from the 4.1 and 4.5 but the 4.9 and northstars arent bad and wouldnt require too much more work than any other swap
#8
Ignorant User
Posts like a 4 Banger
ok if you want a V8 for your Hbody your going to have to look Cbody which is practically the same thing.
1986-1993 Cadillac DeVille is what you are going to have to look for.
1986-87 had the 4.1L
1988-90 had the 4.5L
1991-93 had the 4.9L
you can use any of those engines just the 4.1 are notorous for blowing up unexpectedly. The 4.5 got better but still had issues. So i would recommend the 4.9.
The engine and trans will bolt right into your car. NO custom mounts should be needed. i would recommend getting a donor car so that you can have all the wiring and note the differences. You may have to swap over the front suspension and brakes but once again it should just bolt on.I have not tryed this swap yet but have been thinking about it and looking into it for a while.
Here are some of the problems with the 4.1 just in case you decide to use one (please dont)
1) The sand-cast aluminum block was so porous engine oil would sometimes seep right through it. This was "to be expected," according to the Cadillac Service Manual (citation needed).
2) If the engine were not stone cold when the heads were removed, they would never again align properly with the block.
3) The camshaft was mounted on babbit bearings. Removing it destroyed the bearings. A warning not to remove the camshaft was eventually cast into the block.
4) Because of the high operating temperature, sludge built up quickly if the oil were not changed frequently. At the same time, the holes that drained oil from the rocker panels to the crankcase inexplicably intersected two of the head bolts; the oil was expected to wend its way along their threads until it eventually found its way back to the sump. Thus the slightest amount of dirt or sludge was sufficient to plug these holes and cause oil to pool in the rocker panels, starving the crankshaft and main bearings of oil.
A mechanic familiar with this engine would have to make sure the engine was stone cold, and then a)remove the two relevant head bolts, b) ream the holes with a bottle brush, and remember to c)avoid torquing these bolts to the 95 ft-lbs specified in the service manual unless he wished to Helicoil the stripped aluminum threads deep in the block.
5) Clearance between the piston and combustion chamber was so minimal that carbon on the piston would make the engine pre-ignite badly (other GM engines also had this problem). (citation needed). Thus the vehicle had to use premium gasoline at all times. The carbon could only be removed by either a) removing the heads, or b) pouring GM Top End Cleaner, a potent solvent, into the throttle body with the engine running. If all went well, the engine would produce huge clouds of white smoke and run better for a while. If all did not go well, it would go into hydrolock and seize, never to run again
1986-1993 Cadillac DeVille is what you are going to have to look for.
1986-87 had the 4.1L
1988-90 had the 4.5L
1991-93 had the 4.9L
you can use any of those engines just the 4.1 are notorous for blowing up unexpectedly. The 4.5 got better but still had issues. So i would recommend the 4.9.
The engine and trans will bolt right into your car. NO custom mounts should be needed. i would recommend getting a donor car so that you can have all the wiring and note the differences. You may have to swap over the front suspension and brakes but once again it should just bolt on.I have not tryed this swap yet but have been thinking about it and looking into it for a while.
Here are some of the problems with the 4.1 just in case you decide to use one (please dont)
1) The sand-cast aluminum block was so porous engine oil would sometimes seep right through it. This was "to be expected," according to the Cadillac Service Manual (citation needed).
2) If the engine were not stone cold when the heads were removed, they would never again align properly with the block.
3) The camshaft was mounted on babbit bearings. Removing it destroyed the bearings. A warning not to remove the camshaft was eventually cast into the block.
4) Because of the high operating temperature, sludge built up quickly if the oil were not changed frequently. At the same time, the holes that drained oil from the rocker panels to the crankcase inexplicably intersected two of the head bolts; the oil was expected to wend its way along their threads until it eventually found its way back to the sump. Thus the slightest amount of dirt or sludge was sufficient to plug these holes and cause oil to pool in the rocker panels, starving the crankshaft and main bearings of oil.
A mechanic familiar with this engine would have to make sure the engine was stone cold, and then a)remove the two relevant head bolts, b) ream the holes with a bottle brush, and remember to c)avoid torquing these bolts to the 95 ft-lbs specified in the service manual unless he wished to Helicoil the stripped aluminum threads deep in the block.
5) Clearance between the piston and combustion chamber was so minimal that carbon on the piston would make the engine pre-ignite badly (other GM engines also had this problem). (citation needed). Thus the vehicle had to use premium gasoline at all times. The carbon could only be removed by either a) removing the heads, or b) pouring GM Top End Cleaner, a potent solvent, into the throttle body with the engine running. If all went well, the engine would produce huge clouds of white smoke and run better for a while. If all did not go well, it would go into hydrolock and seize, never to run again