Hey guys,

I've been lurking here for a long time, gathering knowledge from the immense library that is the forum here, and PMing with Wilwren and other experts. As many of you know, I have a 95 Grand Prix GTP that I will be swapping an L67 into. I'm not new to L67 swaps or tuning the L67; I actually do wiring harnesses for guys on Motorswap.org (L67swap.com). I also have some background in tuning the LS-series V8s. I actually work as a tech for a living. But I have absolutely no experience with a Series 1, and that'* what I'm using! So for me, this is a challenge, but it'* totally something I want. A Series 2 is too easy now. Everything you need is available to buy somewhere, and I don't count buying a bunch of parts and putting them together as truly building an engine.

This project also poses some other interesting challenges, as my donor engine is from a 93 Buick Park Avenue Ultra. I'm planning a gen3 swap, and I'm aware of the challenges and problems involved, don't worry. But it'* cool. I'm also going to be using the 4T60 transmission, so I'll post all about building it up to handle the extra power.

I'm shooting for 300+ HP and 300+ TQ, semi streetable. The car is mostly a toy for me, I don't need it as a daily driver. I drag race the car sometimes. I have one of the most powerful 3100 V6 engines (that I know of) anywhere that dynos over 200 HP to the wheels and runs 13.9@99 MPH. But I've pushed the 3100 as far as it realistically can go in naturally aspirated form and want to try something new.

Engine wise, the block will be basically stock. The donor engine has over 280,000 km on it but amazingly (and this is true testament to the quality and durability of this engine) it doesn't show it at all! With my bore gauge, all 6 cylinder bores' size, taper and out of round measures within factory specs! Everything else shows zero wear, even the bearing clearances (just checked with plastigage) are within specs! The bearings look like they could be used again! The cam lobes measure within specs for wear... everything looks amazing for an engine with over 160,000 miles. I will be doing a partial rebuild on the block. I've already given it a good cleaning. I honed the cylinders (since they are good) and will install new rings. All new bearings are going in. The crank is just getting a bit of a polish. The cam will be radically reworked, but I'll get to that after.

As I get into the rest of my plans, keep in mind that nothing is final yet and your expertise and input will weigh heavily on my decisions. I'm here to learn from you guys, and hoping people here can learn from my buildup. I'll have pictures of everything. Why not break for some pictures now?

Here are some pictures of the millions of L67 parts all over my very messy garage. I've got multiples of everything, since I'm a bit of a pack rat. It also means I can mess around with parts and have a backup part in case I screw them up!







Here are a couple shots of the block, almost all cleaned up and ready to put together. Just a bit more cleaning, press in the cam bearings, install new knock sensor and block heater, and she'll start to go together!







Back to the (sort-of) plans for the engine. As I mentioned, the cam will be radically reworked buy the guys at Colt Cams here in Canada. They've done several Series 1 cams before, from mild street to full race, and they can grind any profile you want. We're still talking about mine, but it'* looking like it will be something like the Intense blower cams. I won't be going too agressive with lift, as this isn't meant to be a high-RPM engine. I like the Series 1'* low end grunt. Much more to come on this as we figure things out! Your suggestions are much appreciated too. More to come!

I'll be sending the heads to a local shop for some serious porting as I plan to be flowing a lot of air. They will install new guides and I will install new seals, springs and retainers once we figure out exactly what we'll need with this cam. Bigger valves are a possibility, but since the S1 valves are so close together, I'm not sure yet. I may not be able to do much. I will port the LIM myself (probably) and I have already drawn up plans for my own Series 1 intercooler. More to come on that. I probably won't do much with the Supercharger other than a good rebuild. I may apply some of the optimizations Wilwren has with his, but nothing major. New injectors and some PCM work (or an AFC, but I'd rather now) to tune the gen3 will go in. I already have the Walbro pump in the car. I've got a ZEX wet kit left over from the 3100 too, not sure if that will be used. Not very many details right now as everything is mostly in the planning stages.

My rebuild parts are here so the block will be going back together soon, I'll have more pics soon. I hope to use this thread not only to get your input and suggestions, but hopefully to educate others as well. Wilwren keeps saying "Post these questions on the forum, stop PMing me!" And he'* right, everybody can learn when it'* on the forum.

So anyways, thanks in advance to everyone for your help! I know I'll be needing it along the way from time to time! And thanks for the great community friendly atmosphere here at Bonneville Club and the immense wealth of knowledge. Forums like these are rare not just in the automotive world, but on the internet in general. And remember, your constructive criticism is ALWAYS welcome!

Another post!

The crank is ready to go back in, the pistons are cleaned up and my rings and bearing are here. But I have a question. Can the main cap and connecting rod bolts be re-used? Is this recommended with this engine? If not, what do you recommend? I've used ARP fasteners with great success before and may go that way if you guys think it'* necessary.

Thanks guys!

Chris

EDIT: Sorry Wilwren! It looks like I can't delete this post but it won't happen again. I'm sorry. I just realized I was going to ask this afterwards, didn't know I was being impolite.

Please EDIT your previous post instead of posting back-to-back if nobody has replied yet.

This is considered typical protocol and Forum courtesy.

looks like a cool project

I'm a little concerned about your cylinder honing. Did you do that? Or was it done by someone else? Were the pistons removed? What tool was used?

I see a totally random pattern that should be a clearly defined crosshatch.

I'm with that guy above me. Those cylinder walls look pretty uneven.

Regardless of how they got that way (it'* really a moot point right now) if you intend to do a 'super' buildup as you describe, I'd strip that block down and have the cylinders worked over by a professional.

I honed the cylinders myself at the shop, and they only look terrible on the pictures. I'm looking more closely at them now and they look terrible in the pictures. Not sure why, maybe the flash? In person you can see the even 45 degree crosshatch. This is a good hone I use on engines at work every week and haven't had any problems with it. As mentioned, the cylinder walls measure within factory specs all the way down the bore. Taper and out-of-round are almost nonexistent. I think it will work well. But we'll see!

Today I installed the new knock sensor and block heater, pressed in the cam bearings and finished cleaning things. Ran the soap and brush through the cylinders (they weren't even cleaned yet in the pics) and cleaned all the oil galleries. What a time-consuming job! :P I'm not spending too much time on aesthetics as I'm more concerned with how things will work, not how they look.

Today I was going to install the pistons and rods, but my piston ring set is missing one oil "wave" ring! Part of me was awfully tempted to use one old one, but I can't do that. Tried to get better pictures of the cylinders today but they're still coming out all weird. I think it might be the flash, but I can't figure out how to turn it off on the girlfriend'* camera. :P When I'm looking through the viewfinder before I take the picture, it looks fine, but in the pictures it looks "all over the place" if that makes sense.

I'm still wondering about the rod/main bolts. Is it worth it to buy aftermarket bolts (such as ARP) in a 300 HP build? How about reusing the stock ones? If I were to go with stock bolts, should the old ones be reused or would fresh ones be advised?

Thanks,

Chris

I'm not sure if the stock bolts are torque to yield or not. But I think some quality fasteners would be a good investment.

Ed