I need to know what to do in order to drop 1/2 a second in the 1/4 mile.
I am going to buy ZZP rocker arms 1.8 and 1.85 ratio as well as their stage 1 throttle body. this should net 1/2 a seccond but I doubt it. More than likely .3 or .4 so that means i still havea ways to go. I am changing my spark plugs from bosh 4 tip platinum plugs to acdelco rapid fires , installing a 180 thermo w/ holes drilled into it, wrap my exhaust crossover pipe w/ some header wrap. Im also going to look into making a heat shield for the headers or stealinga header shield like those from the newer 3.8 engines. Next IM also looking into getting some heat wrapping for the fuel lines to keep them a lil cooler. After i do these mods i will be done. my goal is 15.4 without a pcm change. then once dhp works ona pcm for our bonnies then i can talk to them abouta custom pcm and hopefully drop me into the low 15'*.

also i was thinkign of taking out the front passenger seat and the rear seats but i dont know if i can unbolt the rear seats so easliy.MAybee term can help me on this one hehehe also how much of a pain/how long its gonna take to do. Ohh and i plan on taking out the floormatts n trunk kit. and of course the jack n spare.

let me know ur thoughts on anything i missed. or what else i can do.

zzp stage 1 CSC kit

end of story

ok, removing the front seat is a breeze, but might take a few minutes. First, put the seat ALL the way forward, Get a phillips head screwdriver and remove the plastic caps that cover up the bolt, you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it. Also while your at it, remove the phillips head screw in the piece of plactic over where the seatbolt bolts to the body. Take off all that plastic, and put it in a bag. Next your gonna need a T-50 Torx bit (3/8" Drive is nice), and you need to remove the big-*** torx bolt that holds the seat belt "rail" down. After that your gonna need a socket (13mm I think), and simply remove the 3 bolts holding down the seat to the floor. I say 3 because (on mine anyways), one side of the seat had 2 bolts holding it down, and one side only had one. The drivers side was the same way, so this must be stock. After that, put the seat all the way back as far as it will go. Then you should be able to get to the front. Same deal as the back... start with a phillips head screwdriver and pull off the caps. underneath them are the bolts (only 2 up front). Next SLIGHTLY AND SLOWLY tilt the seat back, and disconnect all of the wire plugs and air hoses coming from the floor. Last thing your gonna want to do, is set the seat back down, go into the back seat, and PUSH the seatbelt rail thingy up into the seat. In other words, push it forward so its not a big piece of metal sticking out to scratch the crap out of your front door when you pull the seat. The passenger side is easiest, remove the seat from the front door, base first. If you ever decide to do the drivers side too, you HAVE to do the passengers side first. Once you disconnect all of the wires from the bottom of the front drivers seat, NEITHER seat will move anymore. The drivers seat must have the relays and "brain" for the controls for both seats in it?!. Learned that the hard way

Anyways, that all there is to it.. It weighs, maybe 40 lbs. It was pretty heavy, but not heavy enough where it requires 2 people or anything. Not sure if its REALLY gonna help you in the 1/4 at all :? The back seat is easy, the base comes out just by pushing hard on the front of the base towards the back, and pulling up. Theres 2 clips and it will pop right out. The seat back itself is a little more difficult, but still not rocket science. 2 actual nuts in the middle holding down the seat and seatbelts, and 2 "push on" nuts on the outsides. Lift up and that whole thing pops out too. I dont know if I'd bother doing that though. The front seat... maybe.... but those back seats are light as a feather. You could literally throw them across your yard a long ways if you wanted to, like a nerf football

Only other things I would recommend, would be to remove your drivers side headlight assembly, to allow the cool air to flow into your intake, and if possible, build a nice heat shield around that entire corner of the engine compartment to keep the heat out. Similar to the cold air intake boxes of the GP'*. You could buy 2 big bags of happy ice, and let them lay on top of your intake before you run it, which alot of the supercharged guys do on their superchargers to help cool the air running through there. It takes a while for metal or aluminum or plastic to cool / re-heat, so if you have the bags on there for a 1/2 hour before you race, that intakes gonna be COOL. Then, right before your up, take the bags off and leave them on the track (who cares, just ice). The intake should remain nice and cool for the 15 seconds its gonna take you to run your 1/4 mile, and cool the air slightly as well )

Deflate your front tires to 26 psi, and inflate your back ones to 1-2 psi above max. Disable the damn traction control, and feather the gas. ALOT of 1/4 mile times from what I've found is the launch. Once you get enough practice to be able to feather that gas, and get a awesome launch, with the TCS off, and virtually no wheelspin - just acceleration, you'll be dead on for perfecting your #'*

I've also seen traction control hurt people by almost a full second in the 1/4. Leddy in the grand prix chat room was telling me he got 13.2 with it off, 14.1 with it on because it kicked in. The TCS can do wierd things, like automatically upshift, and pump the front ABS, buth baaaaad for track times.

Anyways, you asked for my help, so I hope this helps... Its everything I know