so I started my question on push rods. Now I'm here to continue what everyone thinks. What I'm thinking of doing. is a
GT 1 cam,
Stock rockers,
105# springs,
new retainers and locks,
new timing chain (maybe the JP one off intense that comes with the sprockets)
obviously the change kit,
maybe the pressure up grade (Idk yet).
That is all the hard parts I'm doing some intake stuff that'* a whole other story. I've learned keep my stock push rods. is there anything else i should consider. other valve train up grades stuff like that. I am pulling the engine when I do all this.
(I'm not boosting so don't need the do a top swap riot act dh2 for as much it would be cool I'm keeping this mild and I am proud to be N/A someone has to hold down this side of the tracks)

Nice list!

I agree with your setup entirely, but I urge you for at least one reason to go to a new factory timing chain: $15.99 + shipping. Sure, there are more reasons, like the timing chain should be fine pretty much for the life of anything else like the bottom end, a couple transmissions, etc, but the main thing is cost. There'* this other, small reason, that PRJ Performance recommends the stock timing chain for setups like yours, but that'* a fairly new argument. This gives you money to put into surprises like broken sensors that your friend accidentally smashed with a hammer. I've had it happen before. Also, the oil pressure kit is then within your financial means.

And other than that, either go with what you wrote or look into my wee and humble suggestion. Either way, that'* going to be one very pleasing NA Bonneville! I expect an album of pics plus "after" videos. Good luck!

I agree with just a timing chain, no need for new gears. make sure the install kit comes with a timing chain tensioner. Trust me, this is a cheep part, and if you skip it, can cost you your engine.

My opinion is go with your choice of chain and or gears, make sure you swap over the cam magnet. Looking to save money, buy only a stock chain and tensioner.

Valve locks aren't required. Your stock ones will work great. If you want to get locks, my suggestions is the locks and LS retainers from Intense. I've seen one or two cases of issues with different combo'* of them from ZZP. Without searching that out on the Riv forum, I'd buy this from Intense.

Valve seals: buy these from ZZP. The Intense ones fought me and won. ZZP ones are easy to install. This may have been the 97 head casting differences, I'm not sure.

If you do it here (I think you mentioned that), we'll put in the oil pressure bump kit. You'll need an oil filter adapter gasket. We could buy the washers at Autozone.

Lifters and pushrods should be fine.

You'll need reusable rocker bolts. I have 5 or so sets. I'll toss them at you for half of the usual vendors.

Bill'* good sportsmanship about timing chains has me feeling pretty inadequate... Still, it would be nice to get people to start using new OEM chains for relatively small builds. Nighthwk, you could be that guy who stood up on a bus of people spending $80 on a stock replacement chain with supposedly more tensile strength, the one who let someone else take his $80 chain-buying seat! Vive la révolution!

Rad, nothing sportsman about it. Everyone should be entitled to use whatever they'd like with those of us running bigger and badder or more knowledgeable helping to guide them.

I agree that changing with a stock chain is a good low cost way to accomplish the goal, but you beating him down with you "MUST USE STOCK CHAIN" is honestly coming across as a bit much.

Hmmmm,..... Radowren. Sounds kinda catchy. Giggle, snort, bahahahahar!!!.
Hey this is thread hijacking, lucky I rule.

The thing is, YOU MUST USE STOCK CHAIN sort of applies because I have been informed that the single roller versions of aftermarket timing chains are OE replacements. You hear about people breaking timing chains and I guess people simply go with "YOU MUST USE DOUBLE ROLLER." The thing is, I believe single roller timing chains from aftermarket suppliers simply don't have any more tensile strength than stock, and perhaps less. Here, for Nighthwk, the stock timing chain is simply the better option because 105# springs and higher lift don't necessitate metal whose tensile strength is assumed to be greater than the stock chain'*.

Using a new stock timing chain accomplishes several things that aftermarket suppliers can't: First, it gives some of the $15.99 purchase price to GM. Second, it employs a chain that hasn't been broken while it has been used in the same conditions as just some, not all, aftermarket single rollers. And third, it saves money. These are all good points, but my favorite is the part about saving money. I do it all the time in all areas until something seems subject to negative consequences.

LOL. Sorry Rad. And I hear and understand your logic. Iz just your day to pick on. Ain't you da lucky one.

I'm the luckiest person in the world!