okay sooo I am guessing the general consensus is don't bother... but I'm not going to try anything insane.. I was thinking 50 or 60 hp wet shot with a Jacobs nitrous mastermind

going on/into engine is proper cold air intake, modify rear manifold to remove the cross over pipe... 2inch off each manifld Y pipe into 2.5inch... through resonator and through Fbody magnaflow muffler. Type 2 ign module and coil packs... msd DIS4 box (maybe the msd coils to go with it ) , MSD wires... 1 level cooler plugs .. and jet stage 2 chip

both the trans and engine are getting coolers and synthetic oil and because of the chip 91 octane is MINIMUM ( I can get 93 at a few pumps locally)

with the options the nitrous mastermind offers for rpm based nitrous ramp up..and timing retarder when the nitrous kicks... I was thinking that maybe even a 75 shot would be capable... the initial kick to the engine is very much taken away with the rpm ramp up

the engine has high mileage.. but it runs very strong no smoke, no oil burning or oil lose at all.. it doesn't foul plugs

so ... consensious says?

if your car has high mileage and assuming the tranny does too, switching to synthetic fluids could be a bad idea, its sometimes too slippery for the old tranny and BOOM! and then sometimes that old dinosaur oil is keeping your seals together and if you switch too synthetic she might suddenly have some oil leaks but thats just what ive heard from several well-esteemed Bonnie owners....

Remind me, what are the stock specs of the LG3?

I don't know much about that engine, but in my experience with nitrous I would recommend you do not attempt this. With that engine I doubt you willsee the gains you expect or want and I doubt there is much of a cost benefit when it comes to shaving off time at the track. To get your best bang for the buck I would recommend a starter NX kit or the Zex kit (all Zex kits are "nitrous for idiots"), that way it just injects at WOT and requires arming before anything is activated. You would want 2 range cooler plugs by the way (when you run at the track).

Again, I don't recommend you force induct that engine due to the bad cost benefit.

the engine is in VERY good shape... and I do agree with the old "dinasour" oil versus synthetic for leaks...

the stock stats of the engine is 150hp and 210 ftlbs.. stock CR is supposed to be 8.5:1

using a typical entry level nitrous kit would prolly have a higher chance of demolishing/hurting my engine and trans then the setup I have in mind.. which is basically a NX or NOS 50hp single nozzle wet kit (basically the same thing as suggested just without the "idiot proof" box that Zex comes with) ... the controller as I said above take the large hit to the system out and uses a more gradual nitrous upramp to the preset "shot" (aka start @ 10-15hp and ramp up with rpm to the 50hp shot) this controller also includes it'* own revlimiter so that if the engine overrevs it shuts off the nitrous and fuel... theres also a fuel pressure shut off.. and a timing retard that'* active only when the nitrous is flowing

the system works within the original nitrous system ... it has to be armed.. and the nitrous only flows @ WOT... this just allows the nitrous to start less agrressively for traction and ramp up so you an get the benifet without harming your engine and trans with the abrupt shock (even a 50 shot is a pretty good shock to the system when it hits instantly)

with the mods planned.. I should be in the 225-240 hp range on juice

to be realistic .. about the time I'm ready to install the nitrous I'll prolly have another junkyard engins and trans rebuilt in the garage waiting for the old stocker to blow

edit: BTW ... even with the cost of all the mods to the motor itself ... it'll still be about $800-1000 cheaper then a stock L67 and trans to swap in them bastards are EXPENSIVE here ... the cheapest one I've found that still ran was 3K (cnd) even the "cheaper" ones I've found across the US on ebay and such but the time I converted to cnd and added shipping and duty and taxes it was well beyond 3K ...