In need of upgrade advice
#1
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In need of upgrade advice
alright, so i finally got around to hooking a scanner up to check for KR. With the only mod on my car being a rice pipe with cheap filter and hs, i have no KR whatsoever. I was looking at getting a new sc pulley, and was wondering what size i could drop down to. and also if there are any other easy, fairly affordable mods i could benefit from. I Regularly fill up with 93 octane if that matters in the mods for me. thanks in advance for the advice.
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oh yeah and the timing was at 24 at WOT higher when not at wot, as i read in another thread that is headgasket raosting territory, so please advise on that as well. my 180 intense t-stat arrived earlier this week, i just have to drill it and put it in (waiting till i flush the dex-cool out of my system).... i was thinking about the 3.4 pulley what brand do you guys prefer, is the intense pulley system the best or is another brand better?
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it really dosent matter about brands for pulley'* but people around here are head over heels about INTENSE racing products and they make good stuff but their not the people who make good products if you catch my drift. as far as the timing issue the PCM will back that down anyway after you get pullied i dont see it as a issue unless it keeps getting 24degrees then id worry.
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alright, one extra question to throw out here, what temperature is a car supposed to run at with the stock t-stat, and with the 180 t-stat.
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its reall ynot a matter of tstat choice per say but whenever you start modding you should run to 180 and have the PCM programmed to turn the fans on at the same temp having the 180 will help things but having you r fans on at the same temp is what really keep things happy. the stock temps is like 205 210 for the t-stat and maybe 220 to turn the fans on from the factory
#7
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To be safe and not worry about KR a 3.5" pulley is typically recommended. 3.4 can work well.
As for the mention of powerlog or headers, think of your long term goals. Many of us spent money for ported manifolds and then headers. While you recover most of the cost.. you never recover all on parts you sell. As for the powerlog.. it should be noted that to tune properly you need to skew the front injectors due to it outflowing the rear manifold. Headers are great if rockers or a cam are in your plans. Otherwise, they flow enough that you would feel a loss of low end torque.
You say that your intake isn't quite up to par, maybe an FWI or a better intake. The colder the air...the less KR.
PCM isn't a necessary item at this point, although some more aggressive fueling tables would be nice.
24 degrees of timing. Timing is based off a number of different items. The base table at WOT with say mid to high cylinder mass should be around 10-12. If 24 was what you saw when you first planted your foot, that is understandable.. what was the timing right before the shift? 24 degrees is something to worry about.. that is a lot of timing for being stock.
T stat... at this point unless you live at the equator I would not recommend drilling the tstat. I'm modded quite heavily with cam and Gen V and don't run a drilled stat. If you used a regular stat sure, but with the higher flow intense stat there should be no need.
As for the mention of powerlog or headers, think of your long term goals. Many of us spent money for ported manifolds and then headers. While you recover most of the cost.. you never recover all on parts you sell. As for the powerlog.. it should be noted that to tune properly you need to skew the front injectors due to it outflowing the rear manifold. Headers are great if rockers or a cam are in your plans. Otherwise, they flow enough that you would feel a loss of low end torque.
You say that your intake isn't quite up to par, maybe an FWI or a better intake. The colder the air...the less KR.
PCM isn't a necessary item at this point, although some more aggressive fueling tables would be nice.
24 degrees of timing. Timing is based off a number of different items. The base table at WOT with say mid to high cylinder mass should be around 10-12. If 24 was what you saw when you first planted your foot, that is understandable.. what was the timing right before the shift? 24 degrees is something to worry about.. that is a lot of timing for being stock.
T stat... at this point unless you live at the equator I would not recommend drilling the tstat. I'm modded quite heavily with cam and Gen V and don't run a drilled stat. If you used a regular stat sure, but with the higher flow intense stat there should be no need.
#8
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Originally Posted by 91buickman
it really dosent matter about brands for pulley'* but people around here are head over heels about INTENSE racing products and they make good stuff but their not the people who make good products if you catch my drift. as far as the timing issue the PCM will back that down anyway after you get pullied i dont see it as a issue unless it keeps getting 24degrees then id worry.
To the topic author:
Buy the MPS system from the vendor you want to continue to do business with (for later replacement sizes).
Going to a 3.4 could cause you to need other mods. Just be aware of that. And it goes without saying that you should always run 91 octane minimum. More if you can get it when you start to pulley down or increase compression.
#9
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Originally Posted by 91buickman
its reall ynot a matter of tstat choice per say but whenever you start modding you should run to 180 and have the PCM programmed to turn the fans on at the same temp having the 180 will help things but having you r fans on at the same temp is what really keep things happy. the stock temps is like 205 210 for the t-stat and maybe 220 to turn the fans on from the factory
I agree that having your fan settings moved down to the 180 T stat are nice.
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Originally Posted by 91buickman
but people around here are head over heels about INTENSE racing products and they make good stuff but their not the people who make good products if you catch my drift.
There is usually a reason that a company has a big following or is recommended to other people. I'm not sure making good stuff but not good product is a valid (or even comprehensible) reason to dispute that.