I just ordered my SC coupler and a new pulley for the idler. ZZPerformance'* oversized idler is designed to prevent having to buy a new belt when undersizing a SC pulley. It makes up the difference on the Series 2 L67 when changing from the stock 3.8" pulley to either a 3.4 or 3.25. I did some rough math with one of Zoomers boys on the phone, and we figured the ratio should be pretty close for the Series 1, as well. If anything, it'll be a little tight, but this adds the benefit of great belt tension AND a greater belt 'wrap' around the circumference of the SC pulley. This is especially critical for a Series 1 SC.

Here'* the link: http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/pro...ent_pulley.htm

My idler is starting to make a little noise, and is wearing unevenly. The new pulley comes with new bearings.......sooooooo.......

I'm gonna take one for the team here and see if this works on my Series 1. I also plan to document with photos the change procedure for the nosedrive coupler. Both parts are on the way to me as we speak. Just waiting to see if my SC Performance 2.25" SC pulley ever gets here.

Stay tuned.......

Good luck on the swap, Will. I am using the water pump underdrive and the alt overdrive right now and I love them!

I've been reading a lot of stuff lately, and came accross an article about messing with pulleys. Basically, it says the SC pulley is ok, but when you change the sizes of those for the alternator or water pump, you could be in for trouble down the road.

The key seemed to be not to under-drive the alternator, or water pump. The former beacuse you'll stress the battery, and the latter because you'll lose cooling efficiency.

Any remarks from those with real world experience? I'd like to know if you've even noticed any differences.

Mike

I'm only changing the diameter of the idler pulley to make up for the belt length slack caused by the smaller SC pulley. It also causes a better belt wrap around the circumference of that smaller pulley. It'* a 'dead' pulley, just along for the ride.

When youdo the math on the water pump, ours actually turn at 17,000 rpm. Reducing the overall size by 10% reduces the speed to 12,000 rpm. The CFM numbers, however, don't change as much. At 17,000, the cativation that occurs actually hampers the proper operation of the pump. At 12,000, you have reduced the problem by over 60%, therefore increasing your cooling efficiency.

I recommend changing your battery when you do the alternator. An old battery will give up the ghost quickly if you don't. You're not going to get an overcharge on the battery, but the voltage is going to go up to 14-15. Great if you are running the kind of asphalt-destroying sound system that I am.

Got the coupler and idler pulley today. That was fast. Just gotta pick up a couple more seals to go with my outlet gasket, and I'm in business for next weekend. Still hoping for a smaller SC pulley by then......

Might have to pop for it through Pulley Boys and write off SCperformance altogether. Maybe I'll just have to DRIVE to Pulley Boys and get one. Hmmmmm......

I might have a totally different beast by next weekend.