indianapolis bonneville fastification
 

yesterday, me, 1337ssei and one of my buddies with a modded gtp installed a 3.4" intense mps with a 3.5" tensioner pulley (more on this part below), napa drilled and slotted rotors and hawk pads.

https://i2.tinypic.com/r1adya.jpg
this little guy proved to be pretty tricky to get on.

https://i2.tinypic.com/r1aeq9.jpg
we also installed these.....actually i did :mrgreen: gapped to .050"
yes, thats my hand (insert insults about how scrawny i am)

https://i2.tinypic.com/r1ahc5.jpg
like my nice towel? its so i dont get arthritis at teh age of 19 from the rear plugs.

https://i2.tinypic.com/r1ahwn.jpg
i think the rotors look sweet. i know that they shouldnt be cross drilled, but thats all napa had. we'll see how they hold up.


we got everything on and everything looked good but we got the same belt rub as mcgrath. so we ended up reinstalling the stock tensioner and its in descent shape. the belt stays on pretty good, theres some slack between the bottom of the sc pulley and the tensioner when the engine is reved and the motor decelerates. we have purchased a gatorback 715 belt and will install it next week.

also, we took it out with the scanner after the install and got some semi strange kr readings. there was none most of the way through 1st gear but right at the top there was about 3-4* and then it stayed around there until the top of 2nd when it went to 5-6, with just a spike to 7*. we were thinking its a fuel issue. but we are going to rescan next week when we put on the belt and see if its still there.

to sum it up. the oversized tensioner idea seems like it wont work.

looking good 8)

Got enough pad lube there? :D

The bigger the blob, the better the job. :lol:

Will, it's just glued in place :lol:

yah that was alot of fun and thx to matt I get blown even harder now :) (not a gay joke)

Anyone have any ideas on those kr reading they were the same before I put the pulley on?
I am running 94 octane and 3 degrees advanced timing in the intense PCM

Drain some coolant, remove both knock sensors, install the sensors with some silicone RTV to insulate them from false knock, and try again. One or both may be vibrating. Any heat shields or other parts contacting can also cause it.

Assuming it's false, that is.

where are they located?

arent they in the middle of the block just below the exhaust manifolds? thats according to chiltions.

On a S2, you'll find them in the front and rear of the block. Identical sensors. IN the block, in the water jacket.

arent they around cylinders 3 and 4?