Hey folks,

Just had a nice chat with Travis at www.hulkspeed.com. He can and will do Series 1 Ported Exhaust manifolds. I figure for the cost, getting them ceramic coated and having someone else do all the porting and welding is well worth it. I'll keep you guys posted and get pictures of the product when it arrives!

Taken from his site, this is what he does:

Front Manifold
Media blasted to remove any rust
Scribe primary opening to a stock gasket
Open up port to gasket match
Polish primary

Rear Manifold
Media blasted to remove any rust and prep for welding
Mig weld bead around primaries
Scribe primary opening to a stock gasket
Use die grinder to open port to gasket match primary (removing internal weld)
Polish primary
Use long bit to grind away #2 & #6 primary that protrudes into the path of the crossover
Mild porting to opening to Downpipe

Crossover
Stock heat shield cut off with die grinder.
Crossover media blasted to remove any rust

Added steps for the Chrome / Silver Ceramich Thermal Coated PEMs
Manifolds are brushed down with lacquer thinner
Manifolds are aluminum oxide blasted a 2nd time to prepare them for ceramic coating
Manifolds are baked to remove any moisture or gasses in the metal
Manifolds are ceramic coated
Manifolds are cured at 500 degrees for 60 minutes
After curing, these manifolds much be blasted at a very low psi with glass media
They are also be polished by hand using extra fine steel wool (0000).

What is the cost on these?

He charges $225, plus a $60 core. The core might be a bit more in this case because it'* a series 1 and he has to find them for me first since he doesn't stock them.

what about with out the ceramic coating would they be the same price as the S2

That was the price of the S2. He'* charging me the same thing.

Edit: The PEMS without the coating are 150. Duh, I'm braindead :P

You'll find cracks that need to be repaired (better than a 50% chance of this).

You can't really port the primaries. They're pipe. You can port out the OEM inside weld though. From the pipe to the flange. Make sure the stitchwelding is done with the manifolds firmly bolted to a flat surface that can draw the heat away, and switch from port to port to keep the flange from heating up and warping.

Yep, again I borrowed from your posts on the subject and went through these things with him regarding welding the cracks and making sure not to heat warp them.

If he'* going to go in the business, he should attach some thread studs to a steel workbench or plate, then he can just bolt 'em right up for welding.

I should send in the set I have in the basement... or sell them to someone...