My SSEi currently runs about 15.4 on average in the quarter mile. To see some of my times over the course of one day go here: http://216.154.125.155/dragn/ (Disregard the first listed time, as it was my first race ever)

I want to be able to get it into the 14s.

What mods do I need to able to reach this goal. Ideally I would like to be around 14.5, but I don't know if that'* going to happen.

Possible mods:
-intake
-chip
-smaller */C pulley
-full exhaust system
-t-stat
-spark plugs & cables
-rocket booster (I really want this one)

What listed is a good idea? What is a good idea that I haven't listed? What listed is a bad idea? Also, what order should these things be added?

Please say if you have any personal experience with your suggestions.

Thanks for any suggestions/help!

The t-stat won't help performance, but it will keep the car cooler, the intake will give you better throttle response and a better sound, the FULL exhuast, (cat-back system, high flow converter, performance mufflers etc will give an extra 8HP or so. In order to get some serious speed, porting the exhuast manifold will really help. The smaller pully is a good idea, as well as better belts (Gatorback is good from what I hear). The chip will alter your redline and cancel the governor.

For the booster...talk to willwren...lol :P

For the plugs, stay Ac Delco, MSD wires are fine, but stockers are ok too...

At least this is what I thinks

A good size shot of NO2 is usually good enough to knock off a second, but I prefer to stay away from the bottle.

Me too, that will probably never go on that car.

A 3.4" Supercharger Pulley will help performance significantly, but you will want to buy a smaller belt or a ZZP Oversized Tensioner to keep it from slipping so you get as much boost as possible, a smaller pulley is the most bang-for-your-buck mod you can get. 20 hp and 30-40lb.ft. for $70 or less is dirt cheap. Also a Thrasher Cold Air Intake (which will have to be modified to fit your Bonneville) to get some more air to that thing. Then get some ZZP Ported Exhaust Manifolds or headers (but that gets pricey), and get a custom exhaust installed from those. That together should get another 20 horses (The whole exhaust, manifolds and all), just don't go too big with the pipes as you will lose too much backpressure and lose power. A colder T-Stat is definately a must because it keeps the engine cooler, allowing for less Knock Retard, thus more horsepower, and they are like $8. I would suggest either a Drilled 180 or a Drilled 160. Colder spark plugs would help, probably AC-Delco 41-932 (1 range colder) or 41-919 (2 ranges colder) Plugs, and I would also get some MSD 8.5mm Wires. If a chip is available, then DEFINATELY get it. It will make a HUGE difference, especially if it has raised rev limiter and shift points.

Also what did you do for track prep for your car. Track prep can make a big difference on how it performs, and the biggest issue is the launch, the better the launch, the faster the car is going to be. Your launches were pretty crappy from the looks of your 60' time. If you can get your 60' down to 2.1 or 2.0 without doing anything to your car, then you will be in the 14'*. Slicks will make a big difference also, because then you can easily achieve sub 2.0 second 60'*.

This is what I would do for track prep to get good launches.
1) Remove everything from trunk (yes, even your spare tire and jack and carpet) and interior of car (including glove box and center compartment)
2) Remove insulation from the underside of the hood, and remove the seal in the back of the hood so heat can escape from under the hood.
3) Go to autozone and buy 2.5" Rubber Spring Blocks. Put about 4 of them in each side (that will require 2 boxes of them to do both sides) in the rear springs. This will prevent the rear springs from compressing, and that will give you less weight transfer on your launch, so there will be more weight over the front tires, so you can launch harder.
4) Remove all floor mats from inside the car, and put the front seats as far forward as possible to keep more weight at the front of the car.
5) When in the staging lanes turn your heater on HIGH to help cool the engine down.
6) Turn off all accessories and turn off heater before running.
7) Make sure all your windows are rolled up, along with your sunroof being closed.
Spin your tires enough to get them warmed up a little before launching, and to get them cleaned off.
9) Pull up to the lights and stop as soon as the 2nd staging light comes on. The further you stay back, the more of a head start you have before the clock actually kicks in.
10) DO NOT brake torque the car, keep it at idle, higher revs will just make the tires spin easier.
11) If your car has traction control, turn it OFF. If it has Performance shift, turn it ON.
12) Put the shifter in 2, this will give you a slightly higher 1-2 shiftpoint, and allow you to hold 2nd gear longer to make your 2-3 shiftpoint later.
13) When you launch dig into the gas further and further, and just get used to the feel of the tires, if you think they are going to break loose, don't get into the gas that far. It will take a few runs to figure out how far you can get into the gas.
14) Towards the end of the 1/4 mile you need to watch the tach, because the car will not automatically shift out of 2nd gear, and with the stock computer it will hit the rev-limiter at 5800. Put the shifter into 3rd at about 5750 on the tach so it doesn't hit rev-limiter. This will give you an extra 200-300rpms at the end of 2nd gear over the stock shiftpoints.
15) Whatever your trap speeds usually are (looks to be about 93) hold the gas until 5-10mph over those speeds to be sure that you don't get off the gas before the 1/4 mile is over.

Hopefully those few tips should help your 60' significantly, which should help your ET'* significantly.

T-stat first..
spark plug & cable really depends on when they were changed and what condition they are in.
Intake next
Pulley
then full exhaust system ( if you do the exhaust system first.. you'll gain in HP and loose the torque.. so I say go for that after you get the pulley unless you're just changing the muffler and a high flo cat.. then after the pulley.. re do the piping to mandrel bent stainless )
Chip would be last since it'll THEN have the full benefit of the programming.. but could be considered to help stiffen up shiftin so you may want that somewhere in the middle too.
Rocket Booster is always good.. Then you can actually have a towel rack ( Ricer Wing ) to help keep the car from entering the orbit..

From there you can also do what Spanky suggested of port and polish and cams too then

That was an amazingly informative post dbtk2.

Thank you!

I will try many of the things you've suggested.

Re: Super pulleys

What possible side effects could come from this?

Is there some sort of overboost protection managed by the PCM or some other system?

This is cheap power, there has to be some major disadvantage?

GO CHEAP MAN!!!! put a bag of ice on your intake manifold....trust me it'* an old trick! it dampens the air intake charge. now that is a cheap mod if you guys havent heard of it now you have. now everyone go try it out it works.

Anyone? I know a lot of people have replaced theirs.

Must I do exhaust and an intake when I change this out?