How can i get more power?
 

I'm currently running a 97 se. I've put on 3.5" intake, 2.5" magnaflow cat and exhaust. Without a chip, or headers what else can i do to boost low end power. I'm making good torque since i've balded some Fuzion ZRI 255/35/R20 tires in like 3 months. I'm not too concerend about top end right now. Would a good set of ignition wires and Plugs help. I'm already running NGK iridiums, but stock Champion wires. Is a supercharger, even an option, I always thought you have to beef up a lot of drive train componanats in order to allow for one. Not to mention the cost. I was thinking If I ran 3" exhaust all the way from the header it would increase flow meaning more power.

Oh and has anyone done side pipe, I'm curious about clearance with my existing exaust, if I can simply modify the location and run them out by the drivers rear tire?

just so you know, those 20"s aren't helping performance...

They help my handling, she's more responsive in the corners with much less body roll. In what way do they effect accelleration. You mean like rotating mass? Please explain?

Plugs and wires are not power adders. They only restore lost power when you replace them if you old ones have degraded.

3" exhaust will kill what's left of your low-end.

Ok great! Thanks. Any suggestions on headers, since a supercharger is outta the question. I'd like to keep it under $400cdn if possible.

You won't really gain from headers alone. You need to do rockers along with them. You might have to be looking for used for that price.

those 20's put a real strain on the drive train, their heavy, and alot to move around, and probably a bigger circumfrence (spelling) then stock tires. IMO i would get a tire/rim combo that has roughly the same circumfrence as stock tires/rims, not only will it help performance it will also improve gas milage

Accellerating and braking are both going to be affected by the 20's. If you're serious about performance in accelleration, braking, and cornering, lose the 20's to start with.

So even though they are lighter than my stock rims and have the same rolling diameter it effects performance. But they look so damn good!

I'm just going to say what I think, even though I may be thought of as wrong. You have an L36 with 2.5" exhaust. Work on the mid and high RPM and get a higher stall torque converter(with lockup).

Your tires/rims have 1.49% more rollout than stock(assuming stock is 225/60/16).

A higher stall converter can make a world of difference in an N/A car (say 4000 stall) even with a stock cam. Your larger tires have more rotating mass on the outside of the tire then smaller rims do. Think of it as spinning a marble at the end of string in a circular motion, A small tight circle is easy to keep going while a larger circle has more of a mass feel to at the end.

Wow thanks guys! When you put it that way it all make sense. I'll definitly look into the torque converter.

So we are clear, you're not really gaining any power through a torque converter, but changing what part of the power band your vehicle wants to start moving(I suppose you might gain some drivetrain efficiency as well, but I don't know for certain). Stall speed is related to input torque from the engine, and the mass of the vehicle. Keep that in mind when ordering, and future modding. Also, as a drawback to the higher stall, your fuel mileage stoplight to stoplight will suffer some(I do not know how much). It won't be noticed on the highway though, so long as it maintains the lockup feature.

*edit* Reworded some stuff and wanted to add.

Another thing you may question is, if you get a 4000 stall torque converter, will you have to bring your revs up to 4000 to actually get the car to move. The answer to that is in the little snippit about input torque. At least, that's stood true to the cars I've known to get a high stall converter.