Dynoed my 1994 SLE L27 today. ---- RESULTS POSTED ------
 

Make some guesses for wheel torque and wheel hp. Will post numbers in a few days. See my sig for mod info, all stock components, magnaflow cat and muffler, fat CAI, ran it at 14*C room temp, engine at 180*C.

135 at the wheels

175 tq

150hp @ 195 ft pounds :?:

143 HP
181 FtLb

130hp, 170tq.

:admin: I think that sounds about right. Very interested to see these numbers, as my SSE would be very close if not dead on.

I took a very analytical approach based on stock numbers, his mods, and the condition of his trans.

Wow. Now that I crunch the numbers, that's assuming what....23% drivetrain loss? Isn't the norm around 15%?

Normal is actually closer to 20%, especially when you factor the mileage in.

I'd like to see those numbers as well.. My Trans is Dead as compared to Brads 94...

I think I have 25-30% Loss these days...

But I liek the numbers I am seeing..

Very interested to see what the Dyno pulls are

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So I had to dyno it at 2nd gear since we didn't have a way of stopping the vehicle from gearing down. All my numbers would be pushed over to the right, just in case you're wondering why I make peak torque at 2600 RPM.

The results are 122.8 HP @ 4500- 5000, as opposed to factory specs of 170HP @ 4800 RPM, thats about 28% loss from flywheel to front wheels.

Torque ratings are 190 ft-lbs @ 2600 rpm, which would be around 3200 RPM at higher gears. Thats 13.6% loss from flywheel to front wheels.

I wouldn't say I have a bad tranny either, I think its in great condition. But I was pretty disappointed at the HP ratings. Of course, everyone at work laughs at me, everybody else's daily driver was pulling over 350WHP with over 300 ft- lbs of wheel torque. We have one newer GTI that pulls over 400WHP with race gas, and 350 ft-lbs. A customer that came in for a bigger intercooler yesterday took me for a test drive to see if he could blow a silicone boot. He was running 60PSI on twin turbos on his 1997 Dodge Ram with a 5.9L Cummins 12V I6 diesel, he ran at 545 WHP @2500 RPM with 1140 ft-lbs of torque. Fastest 1/4 mile was at 12.4s @ 104MPH, full interior, canopy, stuff in truck bed, etc. The lowest all time dyno was 13 HP from my coworkers little ATV and 26HP on his crotch rocket.

https://img67.imageshack.us/img67/90...lledynoha9.jpg

Umm..yah lost me. Whose rear wheels?

haha, oops, front wheel!

When I was on the dyno, my friend had parked behind me in his very clean, very mint Eagle Talon TSi, painted in metalic blue. With my front wheels up and my dual exhausts pointed down, it blew this huge tornado of dust, rocks, and smoke all over this car with open hood and doors because he was just cleaning it and showing it off.

oh...my...what the hell. :lol: the torque just like...FALLS OFF :lol: no wonder these have no top end! they..have..no top end! go figure! :lol: Thats pretty bad tho :lol:

Love the low end...boy, pulling from a light, these cars feel like they'll rocket past anything, but have nothing up top. :shock:

Thats power at the wheels.... so what are you making at the crank?

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Yup, everytime we pass someone, the car gears down, uses all its low end torque to rip it up, but at top gear, high rpms, no more power! Unless we turbo it, we were thinking about it at work, running about 5psi, using the cross over under the TB, possibly running an intercooler as well, alot of guys were agreeing we could see a 50 - 60HP increase.

ah, compound force induction, turbo on top of supercharger. that would make for a truly fast ride.


we played with it some on neons.org. . . . . . we found that to make it work without detonation you will have to use a pretty large turbo and a good intercooler to provide the sc with dense air, because unless you can disable the sc it will still try to compress the charge air. and even tho it will fail to do so to any measurable extent it will add heat to the air.

but the two neons that were built with compound induction were by far the fastest neon's on the org. both posting 11 sec 1/4 and traps over 120 mph. and consider that a neon runs out of gearing at 147 mph at 6000.

the first neon had an sc basically welded to the intake from a ford 3.8 s/c thunderbird and the turbo actually fed its charge air into the s/c inlet. than from there to an srt4 intercooler than to the tb. simple and effective if not a tad crude, but it was fast, dumb fast. tire smoke through the first 4 gears

the second neon used a merge collector at the tb and a magentic clutch on the sc so it bypassed the charge heating issue. basically he used a electronic butterfly to switch charge air sources, sc under 3k and around 3.5k-4k the butterfly begin to switch over as the turbo spooled to take over for the top end rush. complex and full of bugs but when it worked oh it worked. this car also had the best power delivery of the two. still smoking tires through the first 4 but in a more controllable manner. also it retained power steering and a/c. something that couldnt be done on the first car.

if i recall i think audi and vw are using the second method of compound induction

Neon, I think you're wandering around confused. His car isn't supercharged. Let's try to stay on topic.

Unlikely. S1 L67s came with at MOST 225 hp, and that is running with 8 psi. You *might* get a 25hp increase with 5 psi, if that. Intercooling is not necessary at that low level boost either. Once you start hitting 12 and above, that is when you will need it.

Take this advice from someone who actually has boosted an L27: Don't do it. Mine runs well...enough. Tuning is a pain in the arse as L27s are much more sensitive to knock than L67s are due to piston diffrerences. If you really want to turbo, get yourself a L67 short or long block (you can use the L27 heads if you get a shorty), and put the L27 topend on it.

the compound induction was a suggestion, maybe you took it the wrong way.

couldn't wait to jump down somebody's throat could ya :roll:

Take it easy man.

To me it seemed like you thought his car was s/c when you posted that. Either way though, there's no need to start anything.

Neon, this is exactly my point as well.

I suggest you go back and read my reply, and maybe explain to me in a PM how I was jumping down your throat.

You will NOT post your reply to me in this topic.

Turbo would be easier to get more top end out of than a supercharger without digging into it... The smoothness of it will be "easier"on the engine as well.

Tuning an L27 for a turbo has never really been done, we've never seen it around these parts, so you better know what you're doing there... ;)

And I just couldn't imagine if some did that to an LN3 or L27 engine and started destroying the pistons... and then it would be a complete custom tune, if you could keep the pistons together...

I agree with sandrock for many reasons.... If you are going to park an M62 Eaton on top of a 3800 Get the L67 short block at the least

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Well, supercharged at 8psi, has increased the HP from 170 to 220, but with added friction, we think turbocharged is much more efficient when it comes to making power. We've thought of a supercharger, turbo setup for low end and top end, but the concern was at higher RPM's, the supercharger lobes would be a restriction for the turbo.

You have alot more to think about besides the forced induction.

Pistons, rods, and wrist pins for starters. Axles and trans soon after.

Yeah, the best thing to do is to buy a supercharged, and hollow out the supercharger, it already comes with a stronger tranny, and is built for forced induction already.

Don't go that route. You will have absolutely no torque at all. The supercharger casing, and the LIM, aren't designed to flow well at all under NA conditions. Actually, it will flow TOO well.

Going that route, you WILL need to swap in an L27 upper assembly. I'm not sure about the accessory drive...I think you might be safe there. You will also need swap in an L27 cal chip (ECM should be ok to leave in there), and tape off your BCS lead.

Ah, but a hollow SC case is a good spot to squeeze an air-to-water intercooler.