Rear sway bar bolts
#1
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Rear sway bar bolts
I've read the posts concerning the suggested hardware for linking the rear sway bar to the rest of the rear suspension. Basicly, get the correct poly bushings from Autozone, and the bolts from a GM dealer.
So here'* the question. Is there a good reason to pay the dealer mad ca$h for a couple of bolts, or can I simply buy some grade 8 bolts and locknuts from Lowes or someplace? To me, they look like regular, off the shelf, bolts. They might have a larger diameter shaft and a smaller diameter threaded portion, but I don't see how that would matter, as long as the shaft fit snugly inside the bushings, and a nut fits on it.
What about stainless? Not quite as hard as grade 8 (aprox. grade 5), but... they'd be stainless.
I'll be doing the front too, but I can just buy the link kit for that, so it'* no problem.
So here'* the question. Is there a good reason to pay the dealer mad ca$h for a couple of bolts, or can I simply buy some grade 8 bolts and locknuts from Lowes or someplace? To me, they look like regular, off the shelf, bolts. They might have a larger diameter shaft and a smaller diameter threaded portion, but I don't see how that would matter, as long as the shaft fit snugly inside the bushings, and a nut fits on it.
What about stainless? Not quite as hard as grade 8 (aprox. grade 5), but... they'd be stainless.
I'll be doing the front too, but I can just buy the link kit for that, so it'* no problem.
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Well, that'* what I was thinking. I know that some have bought the horribly expensive dealer parts though, and so I wondered if there was some reason that I just wasn't seeing.
I guess not...
I guess not...
#4
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The reason for going with dealer parts is they are exactly to spec. Although..the bushing we are replacing with aren't exact factory spec.
I replaced mine two nights ago and used the suggested (thanks CC) grade 8 with nylock nuts. Look identical to the bolts and nuts supplied with my new front endlink kit from Energy Suspension.
I replaced mine two nights ago and used the suggested (thanks CC) grade 8 with nylock nuts. Look identical to the bolts and nuts supplied with my new front endlink kit from Energy Suspension.
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
The reason for going with dealer parts is they are exactly to spec. Although..the bushing we are replacing with aren't exact factory spec.
I replaced mine two nights ago and used the suggested (thanks CC) grade 8 with nylock nuts. Look identical to the bolts and nuts supplied with my new front endlink kit from Energy Suspension.
I replaced mine two nights ago and used the suggested (thanks CC) grade 8 with nylock nuts. Look identical to the bolts and nuts supplied with my new front endlink kit from Energy Suspension.
..... factory spec, is just a way to keep sales proprietary, and generate factory revenue.
Sure! There are other things like O2 sensors that crap out on certain vehicles...
But a bolt?? ?? If it does the job...... IT DOES THE JOB!
I get a kick out of the requirement for aircraft to use "aircraft bolts"
They are steel.... they have a tensile strength four or more times
and a shear strength 10 times that of the aluminum material that hold together!
and a price to match!
Yet.... warplanes have been made of wood,nails and horse glue, with a cloth skin.....
and have lasted almost 90 years (WWI aircraft) and can still be flown!
Oh ! And, if you build a copy of one of these warplanes...
you are required to use "Aircraft bolts"!
#6
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I want you to look at this picture and tell me which bolt you would rather have holding your suspension together.
I would chose a high quality bolt.
Case closed.
I would chose a high quality bolt.
Case closed.
#8
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If you do get bolts from else where, make sure they have a shoulder of like three inches. Cause if the bolt is threaded all the way down the shaft, it'll eat away at the bushings. You'll want to measure prior to determine how much shoulder you need.
#9
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Originally Posted by jwikoff99
If you do get bolts from else where, make sure they have a shoulder of like three inches. Cause if the bolt is threaded all the way down the shaft, it'll eat away at the bushings. You'll want to measure prior to determine how much shoulder you need.
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
You don't wanna see my old bolts. More than one piece...
I regret not putting a ruler in that picture.
also, the point of the higher grade is that it resists rust better.