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Autotap parameters

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Old 08-05-2003, 02:49 PM
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Default Autotap parameters

Just got my autotap and im wondering what parameters are the best to watch. There are a ton, and i'm looking for advice from the experianced users here. Also something interesting I noticed on my first pass is that for most of the trip the SuperCharger Boost paramater read 100% while sometimes dropping to 50% and 0%. I don't think this is the actual boost guage but the computers request for boost. Is that right? IE if you have boost let me have it, and when it dropped to 50 then it was bleeding off the boost? The manual didnt have a lot to say about the paramters.

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Old 08-05-2003, 06:28 PM
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Just got my autotap and im wondering what parameters are the best to watch. There are a ton, and i'm looking for advice from the experianced users here. Also something interesting I noticed on my first pass is that for most of the trip the SuperCharger Boost paramater read 100% while sometimes dropping to 50% and 0%. I don't think this is the actual boost guage but the computers request for boost. Is that right? IE if you have boost let me have it, and when it dropped to 50 then it was bleeding off the boost? The manual didnt have a lot to say about the paramters.
Yes, that is correct. It is not an actual boost guage. 100% is 6psi boost. (Stock boost according to GM). So if your car is getting 6psi boost (or more) it will read 100%. 80% is going to be ~5psi. The real way to monitor boost is to take the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) reading and subtract the barometric pressure from it, then multiply it by .49. That will give you your boost. These are the best things to monitor from my experience:

Vehicle Speed (Should read a number between 0 & 15
Engine RPM'* (Should be between 0 & 6000)
Knock Retard (Ideal number is 0)
Barometric Pressure
Manifold Absolute Pressure
Long Term Fuel Trim (Positive is rich, negative is lean)
Short Term Fuel Trim (Positive is rich, negative is lean)
B1S1 02 Sensor (Should be between 880 & 930 on a Series II L67)
Injector Pulse Width (Should be <23 @ 5200rpms, <21.4 @ 5600rpms, <20@6000rpms)
Ignition Timing Advance (Should read 15-17 @ WOT, assuming 0 kr)
Throttle Position Angle
Engine Coolant Temperature (Should be below 220 degrees)
Transmission Oil Temperature (Should be below 220 degrees)
Air Intake Temperature
Air-Fuel Ratio
DTC'* (hopefully there aren't any)

There are a few more things I check from time to time when I want to figure something out (misfires, current gear, etc...), but those are the things I run EVERY time I take an autotap log. That will generally give you enough information to tune your car properly.
Old 08-05-2003, 07:19 PM
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Great, how about the actual drive iteself? Do you set it on cruise for a bit and let the log run, or do you vary the speed. 0-60 runs? 1/4 miles? I notice when I do a playback on the logs they are like way fast and not really real time, almost like fast forward. Is there a way to slow down the playback?
Old 08-06-2003, 02:10 AM
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Great, how about the actual drive iteself? Do you set it on cruise for a bit and let the log run, or do you vary the speed. 0-60 runs? 1/4 miles? I notice when I do a playback on the logs they are like way fast and not really real time, almost like fast forward. Is there a way to slow down the playback?
You start recording and do WOT runs from any speed to any speed. Cruising isn't going to tell you anything. You need to figure out what the numbers are at WOT. The playback is faster than real time because it gets data from the PCM about every half second, so if you hit stop and manually go forward or backwards, every time you hit the forward button you are advancing a half second. But believe me, at the track, you would wish the log would go faster, it is a PITA to wait through a bunch of crap you don't care about when all you want to see is 13 seconds of the log.
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