As many of you know, I was the first here to try on a pair of Domestic Performance'* new RSM rotors last year. I beat the absolute tar out of them the first 2 months I had them, and am still as impressed today as I was when I finally broke them in.

It took almost 3 weeks to 'burn' through the machining marks on them, they're that tough. They shed water like a dream, work fantastically with ceramic pads, don't fade under extreme braking/heat conditions, and don't dust up my wheels.

I reccommended them here, and many of you are running them now. I still reccommend them, but it'* time for an update. Keep in mind, I THRASHED these rotors last summer.......

......and alas, on my last trip back from the land of fruits and nuts (California) I warped them on I-5 coming back down the Siskiyou Summit. Not badly, but enough that when they got hot, I'd get a good shakin' shimmy. I was concerned about replacing them, due to the cost, but held my breath. Keep in mind, it took forever to warp these, compared to how long it took to warp the stockers.

Today, I pulled my rotors and had them turned. Surprisingly, the warping was rather mild. From the extreme shaking, I imagined much worse. High point to low point on the rotors was only .007" (in the 2 spots we measured on one rotor). They were turned, cleaned up, pads inspected, and put back on. Pads are settling back in, and braking is returning to normal. No more shimmy!

Notes for future generations:

1. They handle the heat much better. There'* more material to dissipate heat, and they're harder.

2. Slots are great, stay away from drilled rotors. (My brake guy won't turn drilled rotors because of the liabilites).

3. If you're running these, pull your front wheels this coming weekend, and clean the debris out of the slots with a 1/4" drift or other rounded tool. Make room for water shed for the winter. My slots were down to about 50% of their 'capacity' due to debris buildup.

4. After turning, they're still slightly thicker than stock rotors. There'* more turning room should it be necessary.


If you're looking for good, affordable braking performance, this is still the best bet I know of. Thanks a bunch, Ty. You found a great product here.

How much are they?? Those are still on my things-to-get list. Can you tell if your rotors are warped without taking them off? I know you;d get some shaking if they are. I don't have any shaking but my pads wore out FAST (in one year) and am wondering if slightly warped rotors may have been the problem.

I got some Semi Metallic pads for now and I notice MUCH less brake dust on my wheels. Plus the wheel cleaner I use repels it too.....this stuff is GREAT!

Thanks for the info on the RSM'*. I know I will get them. They sound worth what ever they cost.

Check 'em out on Ty'* site. I'm not sure how much they are now. As far as warping is concerned, you'll know it. You can feel it, and you can see it in the rotor wear. You'll have a shiny ring that doesn't match the rest of the rotor. The key is fixing it before your pads adapt to the warped profile....especially if you're running expensive pads.

Semi-metallic pads are probably more likely to warp stock rotors. The harder the pad material, the easier it will be, but you're probably safe for the winter with the cooler weather and gentler braking.

Bummer, though, cuz the RSM'* excel in the wet..........

RSM is a nice shop. I've boughten a fair amount of stuff from them before with my Aurora, I've spoken with the Owner'* Zsolt and Jerry, very nice and smart guys. Their both the part designers and are very sharp. I referred alot of Aurora guys their and they gave discounts on buying intakes and bored TB'*. When I first got their intake Kit, I didn't think that my tube was bent at the optimal filter postion, I called them up and the sent me a nother one for no charge and threw in handfull of stickers and an appoligy note. Nothing but good buisness policy. Also sent my dyno charts to them on there products.

Praise to some good old Candain boys at RSM.

I will be getting thier rotors as well when mine go bad.

You say they have more material. Are they heavier than stock?

Probably a bit heavier, but not enough to make an difference in rotating mass. Just empty the change out of your ashtray to make up the difference.

As I started modding my car, I realized I was getting quick and fast enough that I had to do the brakes. Stock brakes aren't enough to get a quick stop. Imagine a 100mph run, and then needing to get stopped quickly, but the stock brakes start fading from the heat. Spooky as hell.

The weight is worth the braking.

I've been in a Civic hatch with brake fade, thats scary(and stinky) enough. Now imagine it in a 3500 lbs vehicle twice the size. Next year I'm getting these for sure.

Birdman.....I've done it. That was the day my stock brakes made me decide to upgrade. Very spooky, coming up on a T intersection. I barely made it, and it was the fade that nearly put me in the ditch.

Ditto, with all the extra power since modding and wieght i have, (Car weighs 3950 with all the stereo equipment, jack, tools and CRAP), getting the RSMs with ceramic pads was a no brainer. especailly when you ride in Washington DC rush hour traffic every day. you go from 0-75 back to 0 in 2 seconds...

Bill, What brand pads do you use with your RSM'*?