I'll let ya'll sort out what you think is what, but if you look carefully, you'll figger it out.

A little port matching, porting, polishing, and cosmetics:






































And for those that bothered to scroll down this far, a 15 second bonus:

http://www.williamwren.com/porting/porting.mpg

Very nice. What'* the completion date? Figure out that fuel rail conundrum?

I pray that'* not a dremel

Fuel rail has a solution, but it'* not cheap. We're working on another option. It'* more complicated because the injectors have to be firmly clamped into the injector bosses.

Jason, that IS a dremel, and it'* the only way to do it safely. A die grinder would take too much material off, and I didn't have to remove much to match it to the cylinder head ports. Milling was out of the question due to the shape of the inside of the ports and the varying depth of the cut. It took me 30 minutes and 3 different cutters to do one side (3 intake ports) and clean up the water passages on that side for better flow.

There'* a couple things to point out here. In this picture, look at the ruler, 0.3" down from the top, and notice the INSIDE edge? That edge needs to be taken down to allow smooth airflow into the port:





In this picture, notice how little material had to be removed in order to match the port sizes:


At this point, the material removed has been polished. It'* more of an angle cut removal, as the opening of the port actually tapers down to the 45° face. So I removed almost .05" from each edge, but only at the gasket face. It tapers back naturally to meet the port about 3/8" inside the port.

That'* a bonus??? Dentist noises and Will'* butt???

The engine parts look good, though!

Bill, I told you I could have given you some tips.. but NOOOOO.. just gotta be a hard-headed and not listen to the guy who ported his heads..

He'* right though, with the intake, a die grinder would have taken too much material off. My intake was very soft.. but aluminum oxide would get clogged with metal [it would wrapt itself around the bits, and it was never coming off]. So I had to get some tile cutting bit.. which turned out incredible. Went through the suckers pretty quick.

How'd you end up smoothing them out? They look incredible! Mine had lines.. but they were smooth.


-justin

I used a carbide cutter, looks like a high-twist drill bit. Rounded tip, so it doesn't dig in at the wrong spot. Oil the port lightly to keep the bit from loading up.

Most grinding tips that are made of stone are NOT for aluminum. They load up, and expand with heat, and can explode in your face.

After grinding, I did one cleanup pass at high rpms, then buffed with a scotch-brite type abrasive bit, then polished. I'm not done polishing yet, either, and I have another idea for the throttle body I'm doing this weekend too.

On the TB, I actually milled it, then finished with a dremel, but there'* more work to do now that I compare it to the inlet of the SC, and think about the cross-section of the throttle plate and shaft at WOT.

so you just matched the ports? It looks like there is some room to take more material off from in there.

Now you need to get some PEMs.

You can take off more material, but you won't gain any unless you port the heads, which would almost certainly require larger valves. So I matched them. Probably gained about 5% flow. That was a major restriction.

I'm porting my own manifolds, but not alot to do on the Series 1 L67'*, other than clean up the welds on the inside a bit. We're tubular already. Kind of a quasi-header arrangement, and we flow better than the S2 cast manifolds.

Looking good bill. I did my LIM with a dremel and a carbide bit too.
What more ideas do you have in store for the TB?

Not to nit pick but only the front is cast.