OK. So my wife owns a 2003 oldsmobile alero 2.2L Ecotec 4 cylinder.
We went to walmart to buy some water for Tropical storm Erika 2 days ago. Went in. Got the Water, Walked out and BAM NO START. Tried Jumping it with a V8 Truck and still nothing. So got it Pulled home. I would like to note that i thought it was my antithieft system but usually when it is the security light starts blinking. Right now it is not blinking. I turned the key to the ACC position for 10 minutes then turned it off and back on and still no start.
First thing i did is check for spark. Removed the spark plug and grounded it agasint the head of the engine. No spark. Ok so that throws me a few things to look at. Crank shaft position sensor, Coil Pack, the ICM or the computer. (this engine does no thave a Camshaft position sensor), I replaced the Crank shaft sensor and still nothing.. Now i have to determin if its my ICM, coils, or my computer.
I tested my ICM. Removed it from the Coil pack and left it plugged in. Underneath there are 4 pins. A set of 3 then 1 single by itself. On the set of 3 the middle is the constant power. I tested that and it had 12 volts. The 2 beside them are my negitive coil signal. So i took my test light and put it on the positive side of the battery and tested both pins. Had my wife crank over the engine and NO BLINKING LIGHTS. So its not my coil pack. My ICM is not sending out a signal to fire my sparkplugs. Now i have to determin if MY ICM is Recieving signal from the computer. This will help me rule out if its my ICM or something else.
This is what i need help with. There are 5 wires on the clip that plugs into my ICM.
Pink: Constant 12 volt when key turned on
Black: Ground
Orange: Ignition Coils 2-3
White: Ignition Coils 1-4
Brown: Cam Signal Out
So i bought a nice RED LED from radio shack. I put the positive side strait to my battery and i put the negitive side inside the Orange wire Clip that connects to the ICM. The Red Light turned on immediatly without the key even in the On or ACC position. She turned the key on, then cranked over the engine. THE LED DID NOT BLINK. It dimed slighly as the engine turned but thats due to the power drop from the battery. Now This is whats strange to me. Shouldnt the LED not light up until she turns the key on? And since the LED did not blink doesnt that mean the PCM is not sending to the ICM to fire my spark plugs? The same exact thing happened to the White wire when i tried that.
So what the heck could going on and why isnt the computer sending a signal to the ICM. What is telling my computer not to send spark to the ICM

Ran into this a long time ago...believe GM uses a special tester(harness set, to test this system).......a DIY'er wouldn't have one of these...

Your first test shows there is no signal coming out of the ICM, thus the coils will not fire...

You need two signals from your PCM, to excite each coil.....

It'* been my experience, that in cases like this of no spark, it'* usually the coil pack or the ICM....no signal out of the ICM, usually means ICM.....

You kind of have the right idea on the input signals to the ICM(orange and white wires).....but we are dealing with a small voltage square wave......this is not an on /off signal....we need a low voltage square wave to bias the transistor for each coil to fire them....this low voltage signal will hardly be noticeable with an LED...when the signal is low, it'* like a ground, thus the LED is bright...when the signal is turned on, I am not sure of the size of the signal, but it'* height might only be 0.20 volts, which may not be perceptible on the LED....What you might be able to do, is connect a voltmeter to ground and either wire(not many DIY'ers out there with an oscilloscope)....then manually rotate the engine slowly and see if you get a very low signal...for example, due to connections, it might slightly be inaccurate, but you should see a voltage near zero, rise up a few tenths of a volt, and then go back down to zero as you rotate the engine manually.....should get the same signal, on the other wire....if you do, then my guess is an ICM....if no signal(*), then crank input is not getting to the PCM, or bad PCM....

Just for ha-has, you can check the primaries of the coil packs to make sure they haven't shorted out, and taken out the ICM......those 3 terminals that are close together(ICM removed), the center is the common, so measure one outer to the center and then the other outer to the center with an ohm meter,,,,these are primaries, so resistance will be low, possibly one ohm or even less...but should be equal.....

Well had a buddy that works for Firestone come in and he brought his bluetooth computer. Found out it was the icm
Replaced that and the plugs. Now i see the plugs sparking against the engine. Put everything together and still no start. This computer read the engine and chain was turning. He was thinking compression since the walls were washed out with the fuel. So we added 2 cap ful of oil in the plugs and still no spark

How did you go from having spark with plugs against the engine vs no spark once the plugs were installed?

Two cap fulls per cylinder? May have fouled the plugs....just needed a few drops.....

If the walls were washed down, change the oil and filter right away....