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treacherous, delayed after a long-driving -> to-the-death problem
With a lot of Olds'88 parts/sensors/wiring updated, the car runs into a suffocation condition after making 300-500 miles, sometimes less, when it appears it is suddenly starving for fuel. From this point on it's not driveable. It's so bad I can mark a potential spot on the map where it may fail, and I will have to drop off, or clog everyone behind me.
New fuel line components/filters, O2, vacuum leaks checked, MAF, cooling system, switched ECUs. Other shop opened the exhaust - found nothing caked there as well. What can possibly warm up after such a long drive and completely destroy you? V6 is going up the steepest hills like a champ. Also, this problem is brand-new. Folks who ran it with a scanner reported drop in fuel PSI and fuel volume, when then were able to reproduce. Usually occurs for the first time when getting off idle or at very low speed; often going into incline. Ideas for this sudden-death after a longest-drive would be appreciated. Prior to this would make 1,000 miles without a nick of stalling. |
Off the top of my head I'd say a fuel pressure issue is likely.
Is this the 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass in your profile or some kind of Oldsmobile 88? |
^ I agree.
What is the history of this fuel pump? Fuel filter? If the history is unknown, I would at least start with replacing the fuel pump and filter. |
Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Likely the fuel pump.
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Originally Posted by Mike
(Post 1644446)
^ I agree.
What is the history of this fuel pump? Fuel filter? If the history is unknown, I would at least start with replacing the fuel pump and filter. Since this is an FI engine, what are the odds this might be a vapor lock? @CathedralCub, just realized there is Olds 88, but this one is an 88 Cutlass. In couple cases I was able to move it while high-revving in moving state (hitting ~70mph). After 5 minutes of resistance, condition suddenly goes away and the car carries me anther 100 miles, no problem. But sometimes it keeps stalling and stalling to the point I have to park on the side and leave the car alone. After 30 minutes or so, it would start and move like nothing happened. |
Well we know it's a Cutlass and it's a V6 but year might be nice.
Without taking a pressure check while it's struggling you don't know for sure that the new pump is actually keeping up. You have to start somewhere and that is the best. |
I replaced a fuel pump in a Blazer years ago with a cheap POS Airtex brand pump. 6 months later, I had to replace it again.
Like Carfixer suggested, I would verify fuel pressure cold. Then find some way to mount the gauge so you can see the pressure when you expect the engine to start failing. |
You can get a long hose for the gauge. We just tape it to the windshield and watch it. Catches problems like this.
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Originally Posted by carfixer007
(Post 1644454)
You can get a long hose for the gauge. We just tape it to the windshield and watch it. Catches problems like this.
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UPDATE after 3 more months of agony
The Beast is back on the road, 1,000 miles later on a rugged terrain.in the mountains, it roars and runs on full V6. The winning combination was: * changed the fuel pump, twice (good idea Mike of Arizona) * changed the fuel pressure controller * found a vacuum leak during fog test, replaced the throttle body * replaced O2 - just for the party There is still hesitation, and it stalled twice on me, this time on full idle, but going uphill like Lance Armstrong, or running in traffic or 8 hours straight on highways in changing elevation is no longer a problem. That was one rough Y2022. |
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